MIMF

Hi folks, I'm a potter in NC and want to dabble in making a 6 string lap tapper. From the little I've found the scale is about 34" but could be an inch or so less but what is the width.
I have some parts from a cheap lapsteel and the 2 major question for me right now is what is the string spacing, same as an electric guitar? The other is about the truss rod(s). I saw a picture of someone routing out 2 channels and I think he epoxied the rods in and glued the fret board on top, (good bad or ??).
I'm thinking the fretboard should not have a radius.
If anyone knows of some plans or any helpful hints please let me know.
I recently built a passable mountain Dulcimer from a kit that needed a lot of work and it came out ok, so I thought to do a lap tapping with a single pickup. If that works, I'll try a little more fancy one later.
Thanks Wyndham

Since my initial post I have found a fellow that uses a tele 25.5 scale for the 6 string stick he builds.This information has simplified my thoughts a bit since most parts are readily available.
Since the neck maybe about 3 in wide, will 1 truss rod be sufficient or would 2 be better?
I'm hoping some diy stick builder might have some ideas.
I realize that most folks here are very meticulous and I'm sort of a newbi, but any help will be gratefully received. Wyndham

Please excuse my ignorance, but what is a lap tapper? Sort of a lap steel but with frets so you can tap it?

Sorry for using short hand. Yes it is a lap steel style but the strings are lower to the frets and tapping sends the signal to the amp almost like a keyboard. and here is a youtube of a fellow playing it but in a different manor
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kBJhjssX ... ure=relmfu

I hope I have posted these correctly.
I got interested in this method of playing when I discovered the Chapman Stick
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PvuiAobq2_Y

Thanks, Wyndham

The scale lenght and truss-rod questions depends on the string gauges and tuning you want to use. I guess you're on a kind of area that lacks standards. Google for Kelstone, if you're not already familiar with it. You might find some answers.

Henrique, what you say is true, I have looked at the Kelstone and even priced it. It is a beautiful instrument.
I was thinking( a dangerous thing in hot weather) since it is going to be a instrument on a stand there in no need other than esthetic for a slim design. It would seem from my inexperienced POV that a thin neck needs the truss rods more than a thicker body, is this correct?
So if I design based on a thicker body dimension say 3" thick by 3 in wide, would a truss rod be necessary for an instrument about34 in long 3 in wide by 3 in thick with the head thinned to about 1in or less and no truss rod.
Speculation welcomed
Wyndham

Wyndham, the primary reason for a truss rod is adjustability, not additional stiffness. The neck usually needs a slight curve under string tension to get the action as low as possible, and a truss rod allows some adjustment of this curvature (called "relief"). With a tapping guitar, I suspect the action should be a bit higher and dialing in the optimum relief is not critical, so you could get by without a truss rod. I'd recommend the 2 way rod from Allied Lutherie, it's nice to be able to adjust something to make up for less than perfect design or construction.

Thanks Rodger that helps in several ways. I had always thought it was to keep the neck from warping.
Wyndham

I second what Rodger said about the truss-rod function. For the action, according to the stick guitar builder it should be very low to allow proper playing, so neck relief is necessary. On a very thick neck, like 3 inches, the truss-rod won't work at all. Remember the relief could be built into the fretboard, without a truss-rod, wich is hard to do, however.

I have wondered about stick construction, and was curious as to where someone could get pickups for a 10 string model - or would someone have to wind them themselves? I see that the bass strings seem to be in the center on some of the higher number string models Ive seen - mabye two active pickups overlapping and extending out opposite ways?
Im sure a bridge would be easy enough to rig up from parts - but it seems as though the pickups might be harder to acquire..
Any ideas on this? Good luck on your endeavour here..
Cheers
Charliewood

Charlie, from what I have seen most use 2 pickup over lapping but if you want a different thought try going here,
http://www.handmademusicclubhouse.com/forum

Ted Crocker makes pickups and has info on wiring them as well.
I think from what I have found out, my first test will be my cheap lapsteel that i lower the nut and put a non radius fret board on. i can adjust the bridge and if I get something that looks promising, I'll go from there.
On Ted's page is a group that makes lapsteels out of everything from a 2x4 from home depot on to fancy instruments. Interesting stuff.
Wyndham

One thing I've always wanted to find and never could -- despite valiant search attempts here, Google, and elsewhere -- is a documented build of a tapper-style instrument. It seems there are some issues unique to those instruments that one must account for when designing and building them. It would sure be nice to learn from others' mistakes -- I mean, experiences.

Is anyone aware of a documented build on the old 'net? I'm surprised -- shocked, even -- that I can't find anything in the MIMF Library.

Rob thats something Id love to see as well - mabye someone here will indulge us, post a stick build
enlighten with thier whizdom regarding these building techniques
Cheers
Charliewood

I remember someone posting a couple of tapper style instruments several years ago, probably during the period when discussions were not making it into the archives.

Rodger & Charlie -- The Tappistry forum has a section devoted to instrument building. I've found some interesting stuff there since my last post. (Not sure why I didn't pick it up originally; it just goes to show that persistence has its own rewards). I'd post a direct link, but I'm not sure whether the MIMF rules allow it.

Anyway, if I do one of these, I'll try to capture everything (warts and all) for posterity.