MIMF

Anybody use a table saw for the neck/neckblock?

Sounds scary. I use a router for guitars and a band saw for most mandolins.

I've not done it, but don't see why it couldn't be done. I wouldn't try it with the neck block glued in place to the sides, though, and I'd make appropriate fixtures for safely guiding the block and neck stock past the blade!

I can't envision how you could achieve a blind dovetail joint using a table saw.

John Arnold & Wayne Henderson use a table saw. Martin did it for years, I was just curious?

Thanks

Michael, I got those F-5 plans from Elderly, very very nice. I'm starting to carve that walnut back you roughed out. Thats some hard walnut.

Greg: Not a blind, but a through tapered dovetail joint. I've made these type of joints by hand; there's no reason you really need a blind dovetail joint if you taper the dovetail to be rather small at the back. If one sees a need, a small plug could be inserted in the small end to provide a continuous gluing surface for the back of the guitar and the tenon on the neck be shortened a bit to accommodate; ergo, a pseudo-blind dovetail joint, perhaps one with 20/100 vision?

To be honest, I've never seen a through tapered dovetail joint on a steel string, only semi-blind.

Scroll down through the pic's last one is the neck block.

http://laneguitars.blogspot.com/2010/04 ... ur_08.html

I saw a Martin neck block with those cuts in John Arnolds shop.

The techniques shown there don't look very safe. Hands too close to and past the blade.
If you were to try this, make sure to build a jig to so you can use push sticks.