MIMF

I currently use CA to fill grain, but am always interested in other ideas. If you have tried Solarez Grain Filler, I would be interested in hearing how it went. It is UV cure, which is very fast, and supposed to dry clear. Thanks, Bob

I have not tried Solarez, but I have used Gork's GoodFilla and had good results with it.

I have tried all the new stuff and still prefer old fashioned paste wood pore filler.

I have used Solarez a number of times, with great results. I watched the Highline Guitars YouTube videos where he explains the properties, and how he uses it. I got great results. Just remember that if you try to use it to filll large voids and gaps, it will appear white. As a grain filler, it is clear, but large masses of it will look white.

After trying a bunch of different things I've pretty well settled on a French polish type pumice fill. It takes some time and effort, but gives a good result that is really durable.

I've used Timbermate, water based for the last couple and am quite pleased with it.

I have played with various grain fillers (epoxy, egg whites, Timbermate) and often decide that I actually prefer the aesthetic of open pores. I know that is not an opinion shared by all, and certainly not the guitar buying general public who seem to have largely adopted the view that musical instruments should have a finish which is smooth and shiny.

I was interested in a recent ANZLF discussion in which two excellent Australian-based luthiers (Nigel Forster and Allen McFarlen), whose instruments sell for top-dollar, mentioned a fast and efficient pore-filling routine which they have both adopted for their instruments. This is to do a thin sealing coat of CA glue (very stinky, but very fast setting), followed by a pore fill with Timbermate (also fast drying, many colours available, cheap), level sanding and then a final layer of CA. Whole job can be done in a few hours, ready for final finish of your choosing. If you want to see the discussion, which also involves input from Trevor Gore, check this thread on the ANZLF: http://www.anzlf.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=9445&start=25

Nigel also suggests that the process would probably work with shellac replacing the CA. It is all about sealing the bare wood, filling with the Timbermate, and then sealing again over that. When you put TM (or other fillers such as pumice or egg white) directly on bare wood there is a tendency for the subsequent sanding step to pull some of it back out of the pores - so you need to repeat two or more times to get a completely smooth result. He says that the preliminary sealing step effectively solves that problem, enabling a one-shot filling routine. I do not claim any ownership of this idea but I really trust and respect the opinions of these folks and can't wait to try it out. If you look at the quality of instruments that Nigel (https://www.nkforsterguitars.com/gallery/#group1-43) and Allen (https://www.brguitars.com/) produce you realize that they know what they are talking about.

I do essentially the same thing with slower curing media. I seal the wood with shellac, fill with shellac/pumice/wood dust, and seal again with varnish. The pumice fill is somewhat porous, and absorbs some varnish, which then shrinks, so it typically takes three thin coats of varnish and a level sand to get it flat again. Then I go to the actual finish coats of varnish. The big advantage, which, for me, makes up for the added waiting time and effort, is that I know everything is compatible and will hold up over time.

The standard of finish is the 'fly' test. If a fly tries to land on the guitar, it should skid off, and break a leg in the fall.

The method Mark is describing is similar in some ways to the way that I've always preferred. I like a flat glossy finish, but I like the pores to have their natural color. As such, I have always sought out methods for a clear grain fill, rather than anything opaque. But yes, sealing the wood first is, in my opinion, always a good first step before any grain fill.

It is good to hear this, and it is a new idea for me. When I have pore filled in the past I was always applying the filler to bare wood - and I have never got a result that I am 100% happy with. I will try this refinement to the method and see if I get a better outcome.

I seal bare wood with a couple of thin coats of lacquer and then apply colored paste wood pore filler. Kind of consistent with the process described above except for the specific products used.