Neck repair - any suggestions?

[Mike Chartre]

I have built a few guitars some time ago, and fixed a few broken headstocks (one of which I own and still use today). This is what happened to my nephews guitar. The break is seamingly not very far through. It seams to close pretty well under pressure. My inital plan would be to remove the strings and nut and remove the first few frets. I am thinking I will drill some micro holes at the bottom of the fret slots to the depth of the break. Tap of the finish of the laquer right up to the crack, but not over. Tape up the fret board and any other area that might be suseptable to excess glue run out. I will then infuse the area with liquid superglue (not gel) through the fret holes and the missing nut untill there is overrun from the crack and clamp shut with protective cowels. I think that the joint would be structurally stable at this point. I have never repaired a colored laquer finish and have no plans as of yet on how to repair the cosmetic aspects as all the instruments i have ever worked on have been clear laquer or varnish. Atlease I can minimize the glue overlow by masking. It might make it easier later. I would appreciate anyones input on my plan of attack, so here are the pics

Thanks,

Mike

[Alain Lambert]

I would use hot hide glue for that. Pry it open slightly ( or do as you plan with the holes) then inject HHG ( warm the neck also) then clamp.

[Steve Senseney]

I have a tendency to use hot hide glue. If you use Hot hide glue, I would not drill any access holes. I would heat the guitar neck/nut area with a hair blower to help heat the wood before it is glued, and to blow the glue into the crack further.

One advantage of hot hide glue is that it is not going to mess up the finish.

The thin CA glue would wick well into the cracks, but it will cause some finish problems.

Regarding finish touch up, if you can find some fingernail polish of the same color, you can gently touch it up and sand it down again, then (If needed) put a little clear fingernail polish on the surface.

One other concern with this repair, if you use CA, it may wick into the truss rod area and freeze the rod.

[Mike Chartre]

I have never used hot hide glue. I did have a bad outcome with liquid hide glue once. I had a bridge start to let go after a few months. Will hot hide glue flow well enough to be injected into the joint with a hypodermic needle? Would I need any special equipment such as pots, etc? I might be willing to invest as I have a guitar I started 10 years ago I would like to finish, and then perhaps start a few more. What are typical uses on guitar making for hot hide glue? I have always been a tite bond guy.

[Mark Swanson]

Mchartre, welcome to the MIMForum. We require the use of full names here, first and last- please let us know your name and we'll change it for you, thanks.

[Mike Chartre]

Sorry, I know I also registered under my full name, our at least I think I did. I just logged in without re-registering and it took. it may have recognized a registration from when I used to be more active here. That said, pleased to meet you, my name is Mike Chartre.

[Greg Robinson]

Thanks Mike, your account has been updated. PS: you'd only registered the one time.

[Michael Lewis]

First, you should not flood the crack with anything. As Mark mentioned, it is possible to lock the truss rod with too much glue of any kind. I agree with hot hide glue for the repair. If you haven't used it before, you can read up on how to use it. The main problem with hide glue is it gels quickly if it is allowed to cool, so you need to keep the neck warm and the glue at 145 - 160F. Work the glue into the crack and flex the neck to pump glue into the crack. Once the glue is in the crack clamp the crack closed and clean up the squeeze out with a damp cloth or paper towel and let it dry undisturbed for at least 24 hrs. Final clean up when you remove the clamp(s) with a damp cloth.

You are likely to make the crack look worse by trying to repair the finish. Either leave it alone and just play the guitar or have a professional do the finish repair. Hot hide glue is pretty strong and should hold up quite well.

[Barry Daniels]

I did a lot of repair years before the big move to hot hide glue (HHG), and I would have no problem fixing a crack like this with Titebond. If you are not geared up for HHG yet then don't think that is the only way. One advantage of Titebond is that it can be thinned up to 10% with water which will help it go though a hypodermic needle. I wouldn't try that with HHG as it would probably gel up and clog the needle immediately. One can also use feeler gauges to spread glue into cracks.

Basically the process would go like this:
1) Get your clamps, cauls figured out first and do a trial run to know the best way to clamp the crack closed.
2) Spread Titebond on the surface over the cracks. Use your thumb to squegee the glue into the crack. Use a thin feeler gauge to force the glue as deep as you can. Flexing the joint open a little will help.
3) Use a damp rag and do a quick wipe up of the excess glue.
4) Clamp it up.
5) The next morning take off clamps and use a warm damp rag to take off any glue residue.
6) Do any necessary finish touch ups.

[Steve Senseney]

Another method to work the glue into the joint (either hot hide or white glue) is to put a bead on the crack, place tape over the bead, sealing the edges, and then press on the bubble in the middle to force it into the crack.

[Andrew Porter]

You might consider fish glue, almost as strong hide glue, it has a longer working time and is reversible.

[Mark Wybierala]

I'm also a fan of Titebond (with the red cap) for this type of repair. I use Titebond for broken wood and true hide glue for joints that may need to come apart in the future. I am not a fan of any type of liquid hide glue. A 1/2" wide X 18" long strip of bicycle innertube is my favorite clamping method for this sort of thing. You'll end up with a hairline crack but I'd just leave it alone -- the repair could be worse than the finish crack. Ease up the trussrod before you do the repair -- damned if you do and damned if you don't but I'd choose to ease it up. 24 hours after you clamp it up, take off the innertube and clean up any squeeze-out with a water damp bit of terry cloth. A little scrubbing should remove any Titebond and let the joint rest for another 24 hours before stressing the repair. I've done this repair many times with an easy good result. Lots of good pointers in the previous posts. Just reread all of it and do the parts that apply to your chosen method.