Yamaha neck reset

[Dick Hutchings]

After repairing the headstock I was asked to do the neck reset. I'm pretty sure it's epoxied in. I think I would like to try the dry method with a solder iron. Does anyone here have experience to share? I don't want to saw it off.

[Barry Daniels]

I do bolt-on conversions on Yamahas because the glue will not release. It is a bit tricky to saw the neck off because the truss rod extends through the dovetail. Let me know if you want more information on my process.

[Dick Hutchings]

Thanks Barry, I'll let you know. It's funny, we just had a discussion on removing epoxied fretboard and it was easy. Why do you think it's impossible to remove the neck the same way? I'm sure you tried it, I'm not questioning that. I'd like to get at the root of the problem. Damn Yamaha and their fancy glues.

[Alain Lambert]

I made a repair on an FG230 red label (made in Japan) 12 string last year and the glue was Hide glue this one was from 1971.

[Barry Daniels]

The Yamahas I have worked on are later 70's guitars. I have read that they used epoxy during the later 70's but it is not like any epoxy I have ever used. Heat does little to affect it.

One thing you can do to get a feel for the glue's tenacity is to loosen the fretboard extension. This needs to be done for either a reset or a bolt-on conversion. Heat it up and stick a putty knife in there. See how much effort is required. If you have success, you might as well try a normal reset. Just be prepared to stop if the neck proves to be resistant. Don't make the mistake I did of not knowing when to give up and end up damaging the neck. If you have to bail out on the reset, then you have the option of the bolt-on conversion.

[Barry Daniels]

You should check out this site. Lots of info to scare away the timid.

https://yamahavintagefg.boards.net/thre ... k-removals

[Dick Hutchings]

Thanks Barry, that was a good read.

[Clay Schaeffer]

One thing you can do to get a feel for the glue's tenacity is to loosen the fretboard extension. This needs to be done for either a reset or a bolt-on conversion. Heat it up and stick a putty knife in there. See how much effort is required. If you have success, you might as well try a normal reset. Just be prepared to stop if the neck proves to be resistant. Don't make the mistake I did of not knowing when to give up and end up damaging the neck. If you have to bail out on the reset, then you have the option of the bolt-on conversion.

And if they don't want the bolt on option, you can re-glue the fingerboard extension and hand it back to them.

[Dick Hutchings]

I'm sufficiently scared off. I offered to shave the bridge and move on.