MIMF

After much 'noodling' I have come up with a derivation of the KMG jig that works well for me. It is designed to work with my form which I built following Benedetto's book with a few modifications:

• I made it wider to better support the jig.
  I added 20 carriage bolts with 3/4 x 2" spools recessed around the perimeter. This was originally done to aid in gluing top and back to sides but is also key to supporting the sides in the form for trimming flush. I place an oversized guitar shaped piece onto the mold, secure it with the spools and flip the whole thing over. I can then use the varnished surface for the jig.
  The form is coated with shellac, varnish, and wax to create a very smooth and slippery surface

Hopefully the following pics and explanation will help. Note: it will take 2 posts to get all the pics.

Here are the rest of the pics and story.

9) (No there isn't a 9 yet) The final step will be to route channels for binding. This will involve some trial and error with lots of practice runs on scrap. Basically, the micro adjuster will set the width of cut and the router will set the depth. Setting the width will be the same as the KMG, indexing off the nose. Because there is no bearing on the top directly, it will be harder to set the depth than with the KMG. The only technique I have come up with so far is first adjusting the bit to just 'kiss' the top. Then use a caliper to adjust it down 1/4" (or whatever you want). Obviously test on scrap, adjust, test on scrap, etc. etc. If anyone sees a better way to do this, let me know.

I suppose you could make up some precise depth spacers that could be used to set the first indexing height and then pulled out to let the router drop down to the full depth. It's still fully dependent on you setting the indexing depth correctly. I've sometimes used a sheet of paper or layer of masking tape to set my indexing depth assuming that when the bit touches the top it's actually a couple of thousandths into the top.