14" bandsaw modified for 8 1/2" resaw capability

[Brian Evans]

I have one of the ubiquitous 14" bandsaws patterned after the old Delta saw from the 1940's. I wanted to increase it's resaw capability, but didn't want to spring for the riser block and all new blades. I looked at it closely, and determined that I could move the whole blade guide assembly to the top of the cast iron arm, instead of below as it normally is. This required a little judicious grinding on the cast iron arm for clearance, and trimming of the sheet metal covers for the top, but in a remarkably short period of time I had the guide assembly on top and was test-sawing some 6" boards. Seemed to work very well indeed, rigid and smooth as far as these saws go there.

[Bob Francis]

Nice!
and very clever

[Clay Schaeffer]

To increase the capacity of the saw without modification what I have done as a temporary solution is remove the upper blade guide assembly and hot melt glue a wooden block with a kerf cut in it in the housing to act as a blade guide. For someone who uses the saw often for resawing your solution is probably a better option.

[Jason Rodgers]

If it works, and the guide isn't in danger of buggering up the top wheel, it looks like a great solution.

I have the open stand Delta 14, as well, and made a low-profile maple guide block for resawing up to about 7-3/4". Most of my resawing is bookmatching droptops for electric bodies, and since my guitars are only 13"-ish wide, this capacity is all I need. My issue now, of course, is motor power. I could go to the trouble of upgrading the motor, but this particular saw is also not well balanced and there is a surprising amount of flex in the frame.

I hope to upgrade my bandsaw in the next year or so to one of the "super 14" models that keep a similar footprint (shop space is a limiting factor in my tool choices) but have the taller resawing capacity and the motor to handle it. I've been checking out the Laguna and Rikon models that fit that description.

Thanks for sharing this mod. Anything that allows one to keep the real guide in service is a good move.

[Clay Schaeffer]

Hi Jason,
If you have a tablesaw you can use the "nail in kerf" method of resawing and get away with using an underpowered bandsaw. Cutting two fairly deep kerfs on both sides of the board with the table saw only leaves the middle to be removed by the bandsaw.

[Jason Rodgers]

Hi Jason,
If you have a tablesaw you can use the "nail in kerf" method of resawing and get away with using an underpowered bandsaw. Cutting two fairly deep kerfs on both sides of the board with the table saw only leaves the middle to be removed by the bandsaw.

Yes, I've tried this method with less than consistent results. The bandsaw upgrade will be a treat that I'm looking forward to.

[Brian Evans]

I've been happily resawing some wood, with excellent results. As noted it's underpowered, and I found slowing the saw down to it's medium speed helped a lot. I did 5" maple, full depth, for two side sets, 7 1/2" maple pre-kerfed for two back sets, and 8" redwood, full depth, for two top sets. It all went swimmingly, I got two nice top sets, one piece is only .110" on one side, but the others are a nice planed .150", out of a blank that was 15/16" thick. The maple was spalted quartersawn maple from a tree that fell down in my neighbours yard. I put pics in a new thread.