Output jack, help please [Pics added!]

[Kory Pevoto]

Note: When I get a reply to my other post about resizing pics, I will post the pictures.

I have an ESP LTD F5-E 5-string bass guitar with an output jack that seems to be problematic. I will provide pictures but I believe that either the jack is slightly corroded inside or one of the solder points is weak, or both issues are affecting me. When I move the guitar while playing, it will make an interference/static noise. I also had a newer version of the same guitar which I bought new off of ESP's website and it played louder on my Rocksmith game. I purchased a replacement output jack today and watched a few YouTube videos demonstrating the replacement procedure. I have a fair amount of soldering experience so I wasn't afraid to attempt the project until I got a look at it. You can see in these pictures how the wires are soldered to the existing jack. This is different from the wires were soldered to the jack in the videos I've watched. The replacement jack also looks a little different from the existing jack. Can anybody here tell me, after looking at the photos, if they think the new jack can replace the existing jack or if I should just attempt to reflow the weak solder point on the existing jack. Even if I do a reflow and it corrects the problem, I actually have ANOTHER bass similar to this one which definetly has a jack that needs to be replaced and I assume it's the same as the existing jack in the first guitar. I will provide pictures of the 2 guitars side by side. Any help will be appreciated. Thankyou.

[David King]

Hi Kory,
Welcome to the MIMF. Active bass jacks typically have three circuits, the tip is the signal, the ring is -9V or -18V while the sleeve is ground.
Some of the fancier jacks have isolated switch circuits to turn on the preamp, you will only see this in a few basses like Alembics. There are two types of jack; panel mount and threaded barrel. The latter type are generally garbage and should always be replaced when possible with the former type. Two brands stand out for reliability, Switchcraft and Neutrik. Anything else should probably be replaced with either of these brands though the overwhelming preference in the USA is for Switchcraft.

OK the good news is that you have a panel mount jack with three circuits but the bad news is that you bought a replacement with only two circuits. Take it back and get a "stereo" phone jack.
After that it's only a matter of mapping out where the Ground, Ring and Sleeve connections are on the old and move them over on the correct lugs of the new jack.

[David King]

I'm going to take a wild guess that the blue wires are grounds coming from the bridge and the pickup cavity shields.
That fat red wire is a shielded wire where the inner thin white wire is your signal that goes to the tip. The outer shield wrap goes to the sleeve i.e. ground lug.
The black wire is the -9V which usually goes to the ring lug.

The correct Switchcraft part number is 12B which is a stereo 1/4" phone jack open panel mount type
Switchcraft also makes the enclosed jack which was the original in your bass (except it was probably a Korean copy). Most likely a 112B though it probably marked on the back of the jack. These are harder to find and aren't quite as rugged at the open type but they are less likely to get shorted out when the area around the jack have been coated with shielding paint. I always use heat shrink tubing over the lugs after I solder the wires in place. I also make sure to inspect the jack from the inside when a cable connected to be sure the tip isn't shorting out against the paint.

[Kory Pevoto]

@ David King
If you don't mind, I can make a video showing all the wires connected to the jack. The small white wire actually jump from one pin to another. Would you mind taking a look at it?

[Beate Ritzert]

I wouldn't guess. I would measure: which pin is actually mass? which one is signal? Which one connects the battery to mass and therefore will show battery voltage when open?

In order to ease measurements You need a stereo plug. Insert it into the jack and open it. Measurements can be easily done at the soldering pins of the open plug.

BTW: the open threaded barrel jacks by switchcraft are also reliable; and they are superior in quality to the ones used e.g. by Gibson. (I replaced one in my Son's Les Paul).

[Kory Pevoto]

Hey isn't gold superior? And is this how you were talking about using the heat shrink tubing?

-EDIT-
Added a pic showing that it is infact a stereo jack.

[Beate Ritzert]

Gold will help You if both the plug and the jack are gold covered - and if the cover is thick enough.

I have a few amps with 50 year old input jacks (microphone level!). These jacks a re still reliable, and they are not gold covered. I case of doubt they may be cleaned with a drop of Caig deoxid.

[David King]

Kory,

Looking at your photo closely I'll stick with my original assessment.
The white wire is your hot going to the tip (it does not jumper to the ground in spite of all appearances),
the black negative battery wire goes to the ring and
the red outer shield drain goes to ground sleeve.

The lugs on the old enclosed jack are directly adjacent to their contacts i.e. just the outside of them.

On the open panel jacks the lugs are directly opposite their respective contacts. The ground lug is between the other two i.e. the middle one.

[Kory Pevoto]

Okay thankyou everybody. I finally have my head around this completely. After googling the search phrase "guitar output jack stereo" I now understand the parts terminology being used. I have also come to acknowledge that the white wire is not a jumper as pointed out to me but is infact just another wire from inside the shielding of the red wire.

[David King]

Kory,

That bottom most photo you posted is not correct when indicating which lug is connected to which contact. A quick glance at the physical object will immediately reveal which contact is connected to which lug. Just follow the metal.

[Kory Pevoto]

yes I actually noticed a similar mistake on the photo before I cropped away the area that was incorrect. I overlooked that one as well but yes I can see that it is also wrong.

[Kory Pevoto]

Just wanted to conclude this thread with some pics of the completed job. I've got the new Switchcraft 12B stereo output jack soldered-in and I do believe that has correct most, if not all, of the sound issues I was having with this guitar. My next project with this will be upgrading the pickups and adding some new pot knobs.