MIMF

I got some Bubinga veener.
I used cold-set veneer glue and made MDF clampling cauls.
The body and cauls were over-sized about 1/2".
I clamped for an hour, then removed the cauls.
I'm pretty amazed at the results. The veneer is very flat, no cracks, no bleed-through.
I spread the glue with a roller.
Just wanted to share.
Dan

That's beautiful veneer, Dan!!

I have a Joe Woodworker kit for the vac pump I grabbed off Craigslist awhile back & am looking forward to trying my first veneered guitar. I've only played around with hammer veneering. Hope it comes out half as nice as that bubinga!

Steve Sawyer wrote:That's beautiful veneer, Dan!!

I have a Joe Woodworker kit for the vac pump I grabbed off Craigslist awhile back & am looking forward to trying my first veneered guitar. I've only played around with hammer veneering. Hope it comes out half as nice as that bubinga!

Thanks Steve!
I bought the veneer, glue, and roller from Joe.
From what I've seen, a vacumm system is the best way to go.
Dan

Very nice Dan! That is a sweet piece of veneer.

I got a roller, glue, breather mesh, and SS2 from Joe as well

Scored a free vacuum pump from work (they were tearing apart the QC lab and they used it for testing high altitude stuff) and made a bag from polyethylene scraps from our films division. Just used it again to put some lego sheet onto a 1/4" piece of plywood for lego trays for gifts.

Eric Baack wrote:Very nice Dan! That is a sweet piece of veneer.

I got a roller, glue, breather mesh, and SS2 from Joe as well

Scored a free vacuum pump from work (they were tearing apart the QC lab and they used it for testing high altitude stuff) and made a bag from polyethylene scraps from our films division. Just used it again to put some lego sheet onto a 1/4" piece of plywood for lego trays for gifts.

Awesome Eric!
Best of luck!
Dan

I'm just curious why you would but that beautiful veneer on the back

Pete Halliday wrote:I'm just curious why you would but that beautiful veneer on the back

It's on the top too, Pete.

Hah! I just assumed it was a lefty...

I like to pimp-out the back sometimes.

Yes...you can get some beautiful woods from Joe's place. I've been doing some laminate archtops ...three ply maple/wood backer so six ply and finally a nice outer figured whatever. This batch is all burl walnut...just for a change..something different. I built a vacuum frame press ...directions at his site...which is so much easier than fighting with the bag press. Anyway...it's just another tool to add to bag of tricks...and the archtops can be a little tricky. I've found the easiest method is to take a app 3/32 slice (relief)out of the lower bout on the inner layers...and sand the seam away from each other about 1/16th" on the lower bout on the outside wood veneer...a little tricky...but it works.

and ...you can find some very interesting images in the wood...just in time for Halloween...a blast from the past ...a little "ET" action

You can pick up some sweet stuff on ebay too. I got the veneer for this on ebay for about $25.

I second the eBay recommendation. I have scored some amazing deals. One time I got a large box of Brazilian Rosewood off-cuts for $20.

I've watched a video for veneering an arch-top solid-bodied guitar, which demonstrate the method for fitting the veneer joint as Chris describes. One thing that I'm a little unclear on is whether you use veneer tape after the two veneer sheets are fitted. In the absence of any advice to the contrary, I'd be inclined to do so just to avoid all the cussin' I'm sure I'd be doing trying to keep everything lined up as the vacuum bag settles onto the top!

I have posted my methods here before which is similar to Chris's. I cut a 1/2" wide wedge out of the bottom of the veneer and use veneer tape to pull it together before placing in my vacuum bag. The veneer tape is the only way to ensure that the joint is properly closed.

half inch wedge Barry? Wow...that's adventurous! I take anywhere up to 1/8"...and I suppose you have to take into account...how much relief you need from the veneer crimping and wrinkling etc. based on your mold. I leave the lower bout seam taped (not across...and only with the seam tape) loose fitted...and if it does overlap a tad...well...it's faux seamed itself!

Yes Steve I use both the seam tape the entire length of the veneer ...and the blue tape across the veneer as instructed from online vids...but I leave the last 4-5 inches or so between the bridge and tailblock just the seam tape to allow the face veneer to do its thing.

Right, the amount of the wedge should be customized to your mold. Mine had about a half inch of rise and the half inch wedge seemed to be about right. I like using the traditional paper veneer tape along the seam, which holds the joint very tightly.

I did tape on the inside and outside. It was the seam tape with holes in it so that the glue gets in there. That worked well. I followed the fitting method of that fellow on ebay who was putting an ebony veneer onto an arch top piece of spruce I believe.

I try to keep the tape out of the inside so that it doesn't telegraph through the final plate. Veneer tape on the outside can be easily scraped off after curing.

Glued the binding, carved the neck.
I laminated 8 sheets of Walnut veneer to make pickup rings.
I plan to finish this one with wiping poly.
Still working out how to stain and fill the Mahogany.
This is working so well that I bought some Redwood veneer for a new build.
Dan