Sand-Flee? Flatmaster? Do they work?

[Jason Rodgers]

Apparently, there is a new type of drum sander out there that is totally new to me (not saying much ). Just the other day, as I was scanning reviews of smaller drum sanders on various woodworking forums, I came across a reference to something called the Sand-Flee. http://www.rjrstudios.com/store/c1/Feat ... ducts.html After doing some searching on that product, I found the Flatmaster. http://stockroomsupply.ca/shop/drum-sanders.html

Both of these use an under-table drum of various widths and diameters, with the drum protruding slightly from the table surface (that hinges on one side to adjust), sort of like a jointer. The idea is that you move your work across the drum, using hand power, gradually flattening the piece. On the forums, folks say that they work well for truing up a cupped or twisted board, or cleaning up saw marks. Of course, since the work registers off the face of the table, you can't accurately make the front and back surfaces parallel. (It might work to true one face, take it over to the Safe-T-Planer to knock off the high spots, then back to the sanding table.)

From what I've read, the Sand-Flee has a low-powered motor, and can easily be stalled with hand pressure (this is part of the design, I think, for safety reasons). The Flatmaster doesn't come with a motor, but folks online suggest a 1/4hp minimum for the 18" wide drum, and 1/2hp+ for anything bigger.

Of course, just like traditional drum sanders, there are tons of DIY examples and even plans out there on the interwebs, The company that puts out the Flatmaster sells kits with bearings, pulley, shaft, and belts to build your own, since the table construction is so simple. (Dust collection is really simple, too, since the dust is mostly thrown down.)

I'd really like to have a drum sander of some kind to level and true solidbody blanks after resawing. My shop is small, and full. The Safe-T-Planer method works, but is tedious, and the lateral torque and vibration can sometimes jar the spindle loose and wreck a board. I could fit one of those mini, open-end, 10" drum sanders in the shop with some creative space use, but one of these sanding tables could slide right under a bench or stand on end against the wall when not in use. I've priced the parts to build one at less than the Flatmaster kit, and I have a 1/4hp motor (or the box could sit on my table saw and take a belt off its 3/4hp motor).

So, does anyone have any experience with these tools?

[Greg Martin]

stumpys drum sander plans include the flat sander on top. very complete plans.

[Jason Rodgers]

stumpys drum sander plans include the flat sander on top. very complete plans.

Yes, that was one of the first DIY sites/videos I checked out. Cool combo. Too big for my needs, though.

[Clay Schaeffer]

To level and true solid body blanks you could build a simple wooden frame to support a router that could be moved in an X,Y axis fashion and then finish up with an orbital or belt sander. If you use a plunge router you would also have a Z axis. The sand flee doesn't look too impressive to me, although I've never seen one in the skin.

[John Cross]

I bought one from stockroom years ago. I was never happy with it as it is hard (maybe impossible) to control the thickness across the width if you have any flex. That means you need a backer board anytime you are approaching acoustic top, back or sides thickness. If your feed rate isn't consistent, you can get thickness changes from one end to the other too. I came within a few thousands of an unintentional sound port on the guitar I thicknessed the sides with it. Also it is super slow. I used it once and then bit the bullet and got a thickness sander. I don't think they are suitable for guitars.

[David King]

These machines have been out there for decades. I watched a demo a few years ago at a woodworking show and immediately gave up on the concept upon seeing the results. It's possible that someone with a great deal of skill and patience could make this work but they would do better, quicker work with a hand sanding block and some elbow grease.
Just keep an eye on Craigslist for a used Ryobi or Delta 18" drum sander. I've seen them go for under $200.

[Jason Rodgers]

To level and true solid body blanks you could build a simple wooden frame to support a router that could be moved in an X,Y axis fashion and then finish up with an orbital or belt sander. If you use a plunge router you would also have a Z axis. The sand flee doesn't look too impressive to me, although I've never seen one in the skin.

This is a good suggestion, and one I've considered in the past. I appreciate the nudge to get that thought process rolling again.

[Jason Rodgers]

I bought one from stockroom years ago. I was never happy with it as it is hard (maybe impossible) to control the thickness across the width if you have any flex. That means you need a backer board anytime you are approaching acoustic top, back or sides thickness. If your feed rate isn't consistent, you can get thickness changes from one end to the other too. I came within a few thousands of an unintentional sound port on the guitar I thicknessed the sides with it. Also it is super slow. I used it once and then bit the bullet and got a thickness sander. I don't think they are suitable for guitars.

This is the experience and challenges that I was looking for. A 1/4" drop top is the thinnest I'd probably need to go, but that is still thin enough to flex. From what I've read on the woodworking forums, it seems like people who like them are the folks who do small craftwork, like scrollsaw stuff, decorative boxes, and the like. For bigger projects, people are mixed. Thanks!

[Jason Rodgers]

These machines have been out there for decades. I watched a demo a few years ago at a woodworking show and immediately gave up on the concept upon seeing the results. It's possible that someone with a great deal of skill and patience could make this work but they would do better, quicker work with a hand sanding block and some elbow grease.
Just keep an eye on Craigslist for a used Ryobi or Delta 18" drum sander. I've seen them go for under $200.

This style of drum sander has escaped my notice, but their limited use/success might explain why. Ok, y'all have convinced me: I'm off the hunt!

Yes, I check craigslist periodically for drum sanders. I could make one of those JET or Grizzly open-end 10" mini models work, but I'm really pushing it when it comes to space in my shop.

Thanks, all!

[Bob Hammond]

Jason, The Sand-Flee has been around a long time (and it seems expensive for what it is), and as mentioned above it is not effective for thicknessing.

This idea might be useful. A dust shroud is absolutely required. Also, I would make a sled that carries thin stock through, and some mechanism to prevent kickback - maybe a snubbing cable and a sailboat cam-cleat that would be anchored on the base and attached to the sled.

https://books.google.com/books?id=KN8DA ... e&q&f=true

I used the same concept on my lathe (that you can see in the library). It worked well, and I've been intending to make a freestanding one for years (oh well). I stripped a Weslo treadmill down to its chassis and sawed it in half to shrink it down. It is ~20" wide and has a 2HP variable speed DC motor (0-5000 rpm). The roller is on the right side below the frame member. It's about 1.5" diameter, and I'd like to make it larger and with heavier bearings.

[Jason Rodgers]

I've considered chopping a treadmill in the past for other projects. Looks like you've made good use of parts. I'll file this idea away. Thanks!

[Bob Hammond]

I trashpicked this treadmill. It seems to me that treadmills usually become clothes racks. It also occurs to me that for variable speed DC motors, that there is an inverse relationship between rpm and torque / delivered power. I don't know if this would be an issue in this a adaptation / application. Btw, the drive roller of this treadmill is about the same diameter as the Sand-Flee, I think.

[Jason Rodgers]

I trashpicked this treadmill. It seems to me that treadmills usually become clothes racks. It also occurs to me that for variable speed DC motors, that there is an inverse relationship between rpm and torque / delivered power. I don't know if this would be an issue in this a adaptation / application. Btw, the drive roller of this treadmill is about the same diameter as the Sand-Flee, I think.

They end up like old refrigerators: folks sell them cheap, or offer them for free if you haul them off. They certainly are the perfect setup for using a DC motor on AC power.