MIMF

Any suggestions on what works well? Usually minor gaps and low spots in the bindings, but too big to fill with FP. Here is what I have tried in the middle of my shellac FB finish schedule:

• Shellac, dropped in. Works eventually, but slow because once the alcohol evaporates, there isn't much there, takes many coats, days.
• Varnish. Works, but takes forever to dry hard enough to sand, days.
• CCA glue, with booster. Works, super fast, but does not level on its own and dries harder than the surrounding finish, so break through is risky when leveling. Excellent for a well cured finish, but not so good on a new one in progress.
• Timbermate filler: This is good. If I'm lucky, the fill is in the black binding/purfling and I can use black filler. Drys very fast and is softer than the surrounding finish, so it levels nicely. But limited because it is not clear.
• Lacquer sticks, melt in type. Works. Adhesion is only fair, harder than finish unless you get it while still warm.
• Epoxy This works pretty well because it can be troweled in. Takes time to harden up enough to be sanded. Need to trowel it well as in the end it is harder than the finish, hard to fair in. Seems difficult to confine to the repair spot, I end up with it everywhere.
• Pumice I have never gotten the pumice filler thing to work very well, but maybe that is a consideration. Part of my problem with it in this application is my FP is thin and under it is a thin, but dense layer of color that is easily sanded or pumiced through if I'm not careful.

I know, best to get all this done before finishing, but I always seem to miss some.

Open to any suggestions

I use lacquer for finish and it also works well for drop fills. I keep a bottle of semi-thickened lacquer for drop fills as it doesn't shrink as much.

How do you think lacquer would work over FP, Royal Lac actually.

I am not familiar with Royal Lac but I know it would work with a shellac french polish.

Probably not the answer you want, but the answer you need is to do a better job of installing the bindings. Wherever you have a gap there is a reason that it occurred, and it is up to you to prevent it from happening next time. Try to pay very close attention to the possibility of gaps in the binding as you pre fit it before the actual installation process. Make sure there are no flecks of sawdust in the ledge, and that the "wall" of the ledge is perpendicular to the bottom of the ledge and both surfaces are smooth and clean. It's worth the time it takes to make sure the binding fits well before any glue is applied. Then it is important to hold the binding in place securely while the glue dries. There are many ways to skin this cat, you have to find one that works for you.

It boils down to "make it happen". It always does.

Ditto Michael's comment on binding issues...and keep in mind that 3 or 4 lb cut shellac drop fills or even amber or clear shellac sticks and a burn-in knife are handy for gap or ding fills. Flow some naphtha on (assuming the woods involved do not have naphtha-soluble extractives) to see dead Titebond, gaps, or other stuff that will make FP work more interesting.

Michael Lewis wrote: It boils down to "make it happen". It always does.

So true. I saw a FB post today of an Oscar Wilde quote: "Experience is the hardest kind of teacher. It gives you the test first and the lesson afterward."