Hey, guys, thanks,
I am almost to gluing in the herringbone purfling. I have never glued one in that wide. Having a lot of trouble here in Az with the high temps and glue drying quick. Trying titebond extend although my favorite is the new LMI yellow glue.
So, Do I glue in the herringbone first then the binding or try to do them all at once. I usually do my .060 bwb purfling and binding all at once.
Thanks again.
herringbone purfling gluing tips
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Re: herringbone purfling gluing tips
Mike, it all depends on what you can handle. Usually you get a better job when it all goes in at the same time, BUT there are all too often unexpected issues that arise during the process, and once you start you can't stop until it's done. On some jobs I have put the pieces in separately and wait until the glue dries so the ledge can be cleared and the next piece can go in. The most important point is to keep everything even and get it strapped and bound while the glue is still wet so everything can be pushed firmly into place. The binding helps a lot here to keep the purfling in shape, and in this step it really helps to have the binding trimmed to the height it will be when finished. This helps avoid pools of glue under the herringbone, or allowing the herringbone to lift a bit out of the trough. If the binding is too tall you can't push the herringbone down very well.
This is just a matter of gaining some experience and knowing your abilities and limits. So practice and more practice.
This is just a matter of gaining some experience and knowing your abilities and limits. So practice and more practice.
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Re: herringbone purfling gluing tips
Same time for me.
Re: herringbone purfling gluing tips
Got the herringbone in. The spritzing/ soaking seems to both produce satisfactory result as far as fit goes but the soaking worked better. I can't get too close to finished height at this stage in my craft. I have to plane/scrape down.
I used the titebond extend and I still don't like titebond but it did give me some open time to get everything in, taped and bound to the binding channel. I wish the LMI glue had more open time. I love that glue, dries hard, does not stain and initial tack is great but I tried it and it just dried too fast. I am old and slow I guess.
got a couple pics here. Yes. I know I probably was supposed to mirror the herringbone but this guitar is to keep and has a lot of other warts anyway. I like the continuous arrow of the herringbone going around anyway.
I thought I would not like the herringbone to put in but I do like it.
I used the titebond extend and I still don't like titebond but it did give me some open time to get everything in, taped and bound to the binding channel. I wish the LMI glue had more open time. I love that glue, dries hard, does not stain and initial tack is great but I tried it and it just dried too fast. I am old and slow I guess.
got a couple pics here. Yes. I know I probably was supposed to mirror the herringbone but this guitar is to keep and has a lot of other warts anyway. I like the continuous arrow of the herringbone going around anyway.
I thought I would not like the herringbone to put in but I do like it.
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Re: herringbone purfling gluing tips
If you're having problems with open times, switch to fish glue. I use hide glue everywhere else, but I use fish glue on my bindings and I don't have to rush at all.
The only downside is that it takes a full day to cure.
The only downside is that it takes a full day to cure.