Binding question

Greg McKnight · Post by **Greg McKnight** » Mon Mar 02, 2015 11:29 am

I know this will sound like a stupid question, but how does one get that little thin line of white/black binding under the larger binding on the side of the guitar? I just don't see how it gets bent "across the grain" like that (even if it's plastic). I hope I'm coming through easy to understand here.

Rodger Knox · Post by **Rodger Knox** » Mon Mar 02, 2015 1:28 pm

That purfling is usually glued to the binding prior to bending.

Stephen Neal Saqui · Post by **Stephen Neal Saqui** » Mon Mar 02, 2015 2:22 pm

I can't add to Rodger Knox except to say that it's simpler than it seems. You can also buy binding like this.

Mario Proulx · Post by **Mario Proulx** » Mon Mar 02, 2015 2:29 pm

I have never pre-glued the side purfling to the binding; I just glue it all up on the guitar at once. As was said, it's easier to do than you think...

Greg McKnight · Post by **Greg McKnight** » Tue Mar 03, 2015 9:22 am

Oh, now I see. Told you it was a stupid question

.

Stephen Neal Saqui · Post by **Stephen Neal Saqui** » Tue Mar 03, 2015 2:11 pm

Not a stupid question!
I would, however, definitely glue the pieces on to the binding. If you try doing it loose you have one extra piece of purfling waving in the air...not a good idea, I think.

Mario Proulx · Post by **Mario Proulx** » Tue Mar 03, 2015 2:34 pm

If you try doing it loose you have one extra piece of purfling waving in the air...not a good idea, I think.

It's not that difficult. Start by taping all the pieces, dry, at the butt, then apply your glue of choice to the rest of the binding channel, tape it up as you go. When done, loosen the tape at the butt, apply glue and tape the previously unglued section.

If concerned, do a complete dry run, taping the entire length of binding and purflings in place, without glue. You'll then see if you can get it done or not.

Personally, I found gluing the purfling to the binding(then scraping the glue, etc..) to be a lot trickier and way more time-consuming.

Bob Gramann · Post by **Bob Gramann** » Tue Mar 03, 2015 2:36 pm

In the GAL magazine a couple of issues ago, John Greven shows how he first glues the binding then cuts the purfling slot on the sides with a side cutting bit in a Dremel tool. Then, he glues in the fiber purfling lines. I tried it on a couple of guitars so far. It's pretty ingenious. You get a perfect fit with no wrinkles and it takes care of any gaps you may have had between the body and the binding. I think it will be my standard method from now on. It's worth finding the magazine.

Craig Bumgarner · Post by **Craig Bumgarner** » Tue Mar 03, 2015 5:40 pm

Bending the side purfling to a normal waist curve is easy enough any way you do it but bending it around a 1" radius is more difficult. I do this all the time with my Selmer style guitars but it took some time to figure out how. I've broken lots of pieces, but the following method now works reliably.

Buy the side purfling, usually w-b-w already glued up.
Glue it to the binding. Stick the binding to a length of masking tape. Lay a small bead of Titebond III on the purfling edge and stick it to the binding and masking tape simultaneously. This is easy and works surprisingly well. I can layup all four bindings in about 10-15 minutes. Let dry overnight.
Pre-bend the binding/purfling. Heat it with a heat blanket or hot air gun to about 250 degrees and bend with slats over a side molds, just like a Fox bender. I use clamping cawls for the tight bends and spring steel slats on both sides of the binding. I bend both the top and back bindings taped together. No water, just heat. My upper and lower sides are different, so I have a different mold for each.
For the top and back purflings, inside of the binding, I use individual strips and bend them cold when installing.

There are lots of other ways of doing this job, but this works for me

Post by **Mark Swanson** » Tue Mar 03, 2015 9:46 pm

I make my own bindings and when I want a side purfling, I glue a section of veneer, or two, on top of a 1/4" thick piece of wood that will be the binding. After the veneer is dry I slice off pieces and run them through my thickness sander to size them. Then I bend them in my bender, tightly taping them together. I couldn't imagine the pain trying to glue one skinny veneer strip to the edge of a binding strip.

Michael Lewis · Post by **Michael Lewis** » Wed Mar 04, 2015 3:56 am

Just do it! It takes some effort and experience to get it to be gap free, but you CAN do it. Just make it happen.

Greg McKnight · Post by **Greg McKnight** » Wed Mar 04, 2015 10:36 am

Mark Swanson wrote:I make my own bindings and when I want a side purfling, I glue a section of veneer, or two, on top of a 1/4" thick piece of wood that will be the binding. After the veneer is dry I slice off pieces and run them through my thickness sander to size them. Then I bend them in my bender, tightly taping them together. I couldn't imagine the pain trying to glue one skinny veneer strip to the edge of a binding strip.

Drum sander

Dan Smith · Post by **Dan Smith** » Wed May 20, 2015 1:26 pm

A related question:
Where can I get router bit that cuts the binding and pufling channels in one pass?
Dan

Post by **Barry Daniels** » Wed May 20, 2015 3:57 pm

You really should not try to cut it in one pass. I usually take three passes with a solid carbide down-cut spiral bit. And then a couple of more passes to cut the purfling ledge.

Dan Smith · Post by **Dan Smith** » Wed May 20, 2015 9:27 pm

Thanks Barry,
When I cut a binding channel, I make three passes, lowering the bit with each pass.
Benedetto shows a custom one-pass bit in his book which seems risky.
I use a ball bearing template bit. I reckon I could cut the purfling first, and then the binding using different diameter bearings.
Dan

Michael Lewis · Post by **Michael Lewis** » Thu May 21, 2015 2:56 am

You CAN cut the binding and purfling channels all at one time, BUT you have to know what you are doing and make sure the router maintains a perfect vertical attitude and that everything else that effects the outcome is working right. For this reason many folks cut the ledges one at a time and finish up with files and sanding sticks to refine them so the bindings actually fit.

I rout the ledges in the few minutes it takes to adjust the router and make the cut, THEN I go all round with files and sanding equipment to clean up and refine the ledges. This takes as long as it takes to get it right. Ideally the binding should be put in right after routing but reality being what it is usually requires the added attention to detail. Also I make up a short strip of the binding and purfling from scrap material and use that as a gauge to test the fit all round. When it fits everywhere then it's time to install the binding and purfling.

Spend the time to study how these things fit and why they don't fit at times. All you have to do is look at what is going on, especially when it isn't going right. Look for the bit of wood that is keeping the binding from seating fully, or the gap that needs to be filled BEFORE you move on. If it's not perfect find out why. It really helps to have a magnifier for things like this that take close inspection.

MIMF

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