MIMF

Looking for suggestions on a straight edge.
I have seen aluminum, steel, and some people say to use a plastic drafting tee square.
Steel concerns me as it is heavy and could accidentally damage the wood.
What accuracy is needed?
I found this one which looks interesting, not sure if the fret measuring feature is helpful or not:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mr-Master-Strai ... 2a48ac98be

For a straight edge (not measuring device) I use an aluminum drywall square, an aluminum yard stick, a framing square, or the blade of my combination square depending on the length I need. I can also use these for measuring, or a steel tape, 6" rule, calipers or micrometer. I can't measure anything longer than a foot to better than 1/32 inch, but haven't needed to yet (I print out my fret templates.)

Others will differ, I'm sure.

The Mr Master looks terribly confusing. I'd drill through holes on the scale or scales I intended to use.

I use a few straight edges, 24", 18", 12" and 6". Pick the one that fits the job at hand. Mine are steel and precision ground to be used to determine whether stuff is flat or not. Mostly frets and fingerboards but there are many other uses in the shop. These are not 'rules' and are not marked or calibrated, they are just straight.

24" is enough for projecting from the fingerboard to the bridge, 18" is enough for most fingerboards but too short for projecting to the bridge. The 24" will do both frets and bridge height etc. and the 18" will only do the fingerboard and frets. I use a feeler gauge with the straight edges for reading the discrepancies, relief, high spots. etc.

i USE THE SIDE OF MY METAL iBEX FRET RULE OR A DRAFTING TEE SQUARE. i SEE SOME BOOKS SAYING TO USE THE SIDE OF A LEVEL TO PUT SAND PAPER ON TO SMOOTH SOUND BOARD EDGES PRIOR TO GLUING SO THEY MUST THINK THAT IS A GOOD STRAIGHT EDGE.

A level "can be" straight, but as always, test to make sure yours is. I use one with 150 grit sandpaper to level frets. But this use is not a straight edge but a flat leveling beam.

I use a level for the same use as Barry. One side is flat but the other is off a bit. I keep telling myself I will lap that side flat but I never do. I like the width for leveling frets. It is wide enough to keep straight and follow the string paths but narrow enough to not rock a whole lot on the radius.

I use this straight edge. I have the 24 inch.
In fact I have 2 of them; one of which I cut into an 18" and a 6".
I like it because it will stand on its own while I do other things.
It is a bit expensive, but worth it in my mind.

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.a ... ,240,45313

Gordon Bellerose wrote:I use this straight edge. I have the 24 inch.
In fact I have 2 of them; one of which I cut into an 18" and a 6".
I like it because it will stand on its own while I do other things.
It is a bit expensive, but worth it in my mind.

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.a ... ,240,45313

I like that one, Veritas stuff seems to always be good.

Thanks