MIMF

Hello All,

It's getting close to lacquer spraying time (well, when the weather clears up) so I thought now's the time to do my homework by starting out soliciting techniques, ideas, and opinions on what to buy with regard to pore filling, spray guns and associated equipment. There is quite a bit on YouTube but I really appreciate the experienced knowledge found here.

Thank you,
DJ

DJ,

What's your budget? How many guitars are you planning to finish in a year?

The budget is fairly open. I mean I estimate no more than three guitars a year at present but I appreciate a good grade of tool and there may be other woodworking projects being built as well. I already have a compressor and can build a portable spray booth. I'd like to spray lacquer and colored lacquer as well.

Thanks.
DJ

Many localities require that you use an HVLP gun to help reduce VOCs.
With no local rules you could get a conventional gun which is probably marginally easier to set up.
Otherwise:
If you have lots of CFM available then probably a SATA minijet (9CFM)
If your air supply is more limited than you might want to check out the Italian-made Asturo mini gun which can get by on 3CFM (and costs less than half what a SATA runs.)
Many of us get by with a cheap Chinese knockoff of the SATA from Harbor Freight. They aren't bad and you don't mind tossing them in the trash if you don't get them clean in time when shooting catalyzed finishes.
Many folks I know will have a color gun and a clearcoat gun. One friend only uses his SATA Minijet for sunbursts.

For building and repair work, I recommend a turbine spray outfit with HVLP gun...specifically the Fuji Mini-Mite 4...better gun that the $400 conversion guns, as good as the $600 Iwata here in the shop, no need for a compressor, and warm, dry air at all times. Recommended this to dozens of folks, and all have been pleased with the support and the product. The current T-75G gravity gun has all the controls of the standard conversion (compressor-driven HVLP) guns, but all the advantages of the turbine in terms of portability, extended spraying conditions, and ease of use. Cost is $750, or $100-$200 less than a big box brand 60 gallon compressor ($500-$600) with the minimum CFM to run a full-sized gun), mid-grade gun (Devilbliss or similar at about $200-$250), and hoses/filters ($75-$100).

I have a large compressor and very good Iwata and SATA production and detail guns, but still prefer the turbine for shooting lacquer and shellac in Maryland's hot, muggy summers and cool, damp winters. About the only thing I still use conversion or conventional guns for is shooting gold tops color coats or for cat polyurethanes and polyesters where I won't risk either the turbine or the good conversion guns.

Unless you are spraying commercially (as opposed to occasional/hobby use), I don't believe anyone will bug you re: the 3 ounce rule or transfer efficiency, just as you are unlikely to see much interest in whether you spray in a legal booth or out-of-doors unless you manage to annoy the neighbors or hang out a shingle providing finishing services. Most of these regulations are aimed at business use (auto refinishers, etc.) where hundreds or thousands of gallons of finish are used per year, versus the gallon or two that a busy hobby builder might shoot in her backyard.

A more important consideration for hobbyists is any constraints in their homeowners insurance when setting up a spray booth. If your house burns down due to a faulty outlet in the bedroom, you can bet your insurer will be looking for an out on payout.

If you will be shooting graduated colors like bursts then the better guns are more or less what you need, but if you will be shooting solid colors and clear coats then the less expensive guns work well. I have an Iwata I paid $400 for and that is used for bursts but most everything else in my shop is done with cheap jamb guns and gravity guns from Harbor Fright. The key is getting to know how to spray, what to look for as you apply a coat, and to get enough on in each coat to make it wet but not run or sag. A little practice and some reading or talking with the folks at the paint store will help. It's not rocket science but it does require that you pay attention.

Thank you all for your input. As I am budget conscience, the lesser priced equipment (300-400) will be where I'm at for now but I totally agree with Michael. Learning how, what, and why is key.

Happy Holidays,

DJ

Todd makes some important points re the turbine hvlp systems. The warm air can be a big help in certain situations. I often see these systems for sale on Craigslist coming from bathtub refinishers who are throwing in the towel. If parts are available they can be easily rebuilt.

Again the important factor with conversion guns is how much air your compressor can supply.