removing a bound back
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removing a bound back
without removing the binding? Is it possible? Binding is in great shape, I believe it is Ebony. It is a Sammos" all Koa mandolin from 19?? Top is caved in, loose braces I'm sure, and is bound as well. I will post a picture ASAP, of the one loose place. Hoping I can get it all off and not have to re-bind.
- Barry Daniels
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Re: removing a bound back
You could score all the way around at the bottom edge of the binding.
Use a razor saw and saw through the place where you scored. After you have cut all the way around, the back should come off.
Fix the parts you need to fix.
You have to flatten the surface you cut, both on the sides and the bound back you removed.
If the sides change shape when cut off, you need to make a form to get the sides where you need them. This could simply be made of several layers of cardboard. Use shims to get the sides perfectly aligned.
If the solid or kerfed linings are not deep enough, you may need to add some of these back.
When both surfaces are flattened adequately, glue the back on again. Hopefully you can touch up the glue joint without too much trouble.
Or use your router and rebind the back.
Use a razor saw and saw through the place where you scored. After you have cut all the way around, the back should come off.
Fix the parts you need to fix.
You have to flatten the surface you cut, both on the sides and the bound back you removed.
If the sides change shape when cut off, you need to make a form to get the sides where you need them. This could simply be made of several layers of cardboard. Use shims to get the sides perfectly aligned.
If the solid or kerfed linings are not deep enough, you may need to add some of these back.
When both surfaces are flattened adequately, glue the back on again. Hopefully you can touch up the glue joint without too much trouble.
Or use your router and rebind the back.
- Mark Swanson
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Re: removing a bound back
I would agree with Barry pretty much, the only way I could see it working is if the bottom edge of the binding is even with the seam between the back and sides, which it never is. In other words if the binding is not the same thickness as the back then the seams will not line up. If you cut it off as Steve suggests, you will cut below the actual seam between the back and sides, don't want to do that.
- Mark Swanson, guitarist, MIMForum Staff
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Re: removing a bound back
The process is to remove the binding with the idea you may well have to replace it with new. That will expose the glue seam, which is what you work at until it lets go. There are many traps and pitfalls along this path but it can be negotiated. Do your repair and glue the back on as best you can to keep the binding ledge as close to original size as possible. Carefully scrutinize the binding ledge for the biggest 'gap' requiring larger binding, and recut the whole ledge to this size. You may add a contrasting stripe to help fill the deeper/larger ledge, or just use one piece of binding the original color and large enough to fill the ledge. Scrape it level and touch up the finish.
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Re: removing a bound back
I've on occassion, removed the binding as one single piece....then proceeded to the back removal. tracing everything with a razor as well as warming it all with a heat gun (cautiously) helps.
And reglued it on after reglueing the back. but everything has to line up as near perfect as you can get it.
I have also had old (gibsons) guitars where the back and binding came off together as one unit! but thats usually due to EVERYTHING being too dry for too long.
And reglued it on after reglueing the back. but everything has to line up as near perfect as you can get it.
I have also had old (gibsons) guitars where the back and binding came off together as one unit! but thats usually due to EVERYTHING being too dry for too long.