Making a template

[Mike Hall]

Hello all,
Received my plans today for a future build, I was wondering the best approach to making a template from the plans.
Basically how do I take the plan and cut it out of wood? Probably going to use MDF.

Cheers in advance Mike

[Gordon Bellerose]

I have found the easiest way to "Copy" the plan onto wood without cutting the plan into pieces, is to use carbon paper.
Lay the carbon paper in between the plan and the wood, and simply trace the pattern onto your wood.
Make sure the plan is taped to the wood in a few places so it does not slip.

After that you'll have to use either a band saw or jig saw to cut out the shape.
I always make two templates. One for the full body shape, usually with the control cavity in it, and another for the pickup routs, and neck pocket.
You may also need a third template for the control cavity cover if necessary.
The second does not have to have an accurate outer body shape.

Be very careful when making your neck pocket template. It is easy to make it too big.
I use a band saw, and then a spindle sander, stopping to check accuracy often.
For the inside cuts start your hole with a drill, and then cut them out with a jig saw.

BE CERTAIN TO MARK AN ACCURATE CENTER LINE ON BOTH!!

[Jamie Unden]

I usually use spray glue and just glue the paper to the MDF and cut it out there.

[Gordon Bellerose]

I usually use spray glue and just glue the paper to the MDF and cut it out there.

You can do it that way if you don't mind destroying the plan.
If I've paid money for a plan, I try to conserve it if possible.

Another note:
You will likely spend almost as much time building templates for your first guitar, as you will building the guitar!!
But once you have a good template, you can use it over and over.

[Jamie Unden]

I advise my customers to make copies, just in case they blow the template on the first try.

[Gordon Bellerose]

I advise my customers to make copies, just in case they blow the template on the first try.

That's a good idea too.
Do you make only one template, or two, or more for the same guitar?

I find that if I make a separate template for the pickups and neck pocket, I can use that on different guitars. At least I can if the scale stays the same.
Consequently I have templates for several different style bodies, and I just use the pickup template I want.
I have a HH template, a two P-90 template, and so on.

I also have a few neck templates.

[Jamie Unden]

My hard templates include two plates. One for the back that has the control cavity, neck mounting holes, string holes if they are through-body, spring cavity if it has a trem, and the body outline. The other plate has neck pocket, pickups, control mounting holes, bridge mounting holes, and slots if there are carved reliefs.

[Art Davila]

I go to kinkos and make 3 copies. I always keep the original and mark it so I know it is the original. You know how bad a copy of a copy can get.

Also Jamie are you gearing up to do other projects yet? we had talked about the billybo and hollowing out the body.

[Jamie Unden]

The paper plan shows that, but not the hard template. Easy enough...

[Mike Hall]

Wow, speedy reply's gents. thanks for the info.
I am in talks with someone to make copies for cutting, 1 in case i drop a bollox 2nd would like to keep original in one piece, but that's not essential.
I was thinking of gluing the plan to mdf but i didn't know weather that was a good approach
Like the carbon paper idea, read that that and thought "O yeah"
Separate template for pick ups and neck pocket yeah defo doing that.
Just 2 body template really, Body outline with pilot holes for bridge placement, and back outline with a cavity.
The neck will be a hand tools only as i wanna go slow with that.
I actually bought it from you Jamie, have to say quick international shipping Thanks you.
The plans are for an Ibanez Destroyer clone, Materials are uncertain at this point.
Thanks again Mike

[Alexander Higgins]

I had a really hard time making the template for my hybrid steinberger, every tiny mistake faithfully translates onto the body. I bandsawed the body shape about 1/8" beyond the template and used a robosander chucked in my drillpress to cut back to the template. It worked great at following the template, but the 80 grit sanding sleeve left really deep scratches, particularly in endgrain around the horns, so I ended up having to hand-sand off a lot more wood than I intended. I used 1/4" masonite for the template, probably should have doubled it up for more bearing surface for the router. I tried to use one template for everything, big mistake. What do you all use to refine the body shape after rough cut to template? I didn't want to risk chipping out the body sides by using a pattern router bit.

Jamie makes some really nice plans, got my eye on a bass pattern, but first let's see if I can get through my first build with no more screwups.

[Jamie Unden]

Back when I used templates it was really harry using a router. Once I had the router in a router table, 2" follower bit, and I didn't get close enough with the band saw. It grabbed hold of the nice Brazilian redwood Tele blank and pitched it across the yard! After that I would use a robosander.

[Jason Rodgers]

Disc, belt, and oscillating spindle sanders can be used (with practice) to get really good edge results up to the line. Sometimes, I like to go the last few thou to the line with sanding blocks: they allow you to take very controlled little nibbles or long, gentle sweeps to blend bumps or wiggles. I've done this with 1/4" hardboard and plexi. Just take your time and be patient.

[Gordon Bellerose]

I've found that thicker material makes a template much easier to work with.
My opinion is that 1/4 is too thin, it does not give enough side surface for pattern bits or pattern sanding drums.
In fact, I have now converted all of my templates to 3/4 inch material. Especially the pickup / neckpocket templates.
I do not have to add extra material under the template to start routing pockets as I had to using thinner material.
The 3/8 or 1/2 inch router bits with a guide bearing is approx. 13/16 from the bottom cutting edge, to the top of the bearing.

[Jamie Unden]

I've found that thicker material makes a template much easier to work with.
My opinion is that 1/4 is too thin, it does not give enough side surface for pattern bits or pattern sanding drums.
In fact, I have now converted all of my templates to 3/4 inch material. Especially the pickup / neckpocket templates.
I do not have to add extra material under the template to start routing pockets as I had to using thinner material.
The 3/8 or 1/2 inch router bits with a guide bearing is approx. 13/16 from the bottom cutting edge, to the top of the bearing.

I have to agree, but I can't find any source for 3/8" MDF and it's too expensive to ship 1/2".

[Gordon Bellerose]

I use regular 3/4 inch plywood. Smooth one side, or smooth 2 sides if I can get it. MDF is very dusty to work with.
I'm not sure where you live Jamie, but I get a whole 4' x 8' sheet for about 35 dollars at my building material supply store.

[Jamie Unden]

Mine only has 1/4" and 1/2", California.

[David King]

Baltic birch ply for me. I like the 12mm and 20mm stuff. I seem to pickup other folks scraps which cost me nothing. Once I get them perfect I soak the edges in thin CA and scrape them smooth again.

[Gordon Bellerose]

Alexander Higgins made a very good point above.
QUOTE: "Every little mistake you've made making your template, faithfully transfers to the guitar."

This is very true. One of the mistakes I made early on, was to not use a piece of plastic tubing on my guide router bit.
The tubing goes over the shank and holds the guide bearing in position. I forgot to put the tubing on, and the result was ruining not only my template, but a beautiful piece of flamed maple.
The part ruined was the neck pocket, and I ended up having to cut the center portion out, and using the maple "wings" in another multi-piece body.

[Chris Richards]

Hi

Just a couple of points...

When photocopying plans you have to be a bit careful since the copy may come out a tad larger than the original and it's worth overlaying the original over the copy and checking, sometimes the distortion more on one axis than another so be careful.

Another good trick is that once you've made your template when using a bearing guided router you can put tape around the template to make it a bit bigger, then remove the tape to make a very fine final cut.