MIMF

I am finally going to get myself the European version the well-known Bosch colt laminate trimmer (palm router) kit. It comes with various bits and pieces.

My plan is to use it to route the ledges for bindings on classical guitars so I will need to get an appropriate cutter and more importantly some sort of jig for guiding it. As far a I can see the ones at StewMac are all from Dremels. Over the years I've seen loads of lovely home made jigs here but realistically I doubt if I have the time or the patience to make one. (unless it was ultra simple and wood only)

Any recommendations for a commercial jig/guide for this? I am looking for something hand held.

Thanks.

On that subjexct- any opinions on the Bosch Colt vs the larger of the DeWalt lam trimmers? besides the extra HP and the nicer base, the DeWalt has micro-adjustable depth and the Bosch doesn't.

I use the StewMac binding router bits with the bottom bearing, a small handheld router (a Ridgid at the moment) with a donut base, and cut my ledges freehand with no jig. You might try it on scraps and see if you can do it. It only requires that you keep the axis of the router parallel to the sides as you cut. In a jig, I don't know that it would matter which router you used. Freehand, one that fits comfortably in your hand is good--control is everything. I turned the donut base on a lathe out of UHMW plastic. I've never used a jig, so I can't compare.

Have you seen StewMac's "TrueChannel Binding Routing Jig"? It (or something like it) might be what you're looking for. It uses the Bosch Colt router.

I built a variation of the Fleishman jig, albeit a bit smaller and more lightweight...

With router:

I kind of over-enginnered this thing, the pivots are all ball bearings; this allows a freedom of movement that makes the jig act like it's not there, evevn though it keeps the router perpendicular to my table.

Louie, that's the coolest version of this jig I've ever seen. I see you've left out the parallelogram pivot for a simple vertical sliding rod. That makes a lot of sense: I had a heckuva time getting that part square, and came to realize that if your body-holding jig is adjustable for height, you only need about 1" of travel.

I've had good success with the binding router jig made from LMII plans which results in a jig similar to StewMac's Truechannel jig. I use a Colt router and the LMII bit and bearings. I've purchased the bearings one at a time as I needed them and by now I have about three-quarters of all the sizes offered. I should have just bought them all at the kit price to start with. I have no experience with any other 1/4" router than the Bosch Colt, but it has been excellent for me.

Before the LMII jig, I used the StewMac "Precision" router base for a Dremel tool and the "Precision" binding guide attachement. It did okay, but it did not deal well with domed backs and tops. The LMII jig is much better with this.

Before this, I cut binding ledges by hand, using a homemade gramil. This worked well too, but in my hands, it was not a precise, slow and at times tedious if the grain runs the wrong way. I still use the gramil around the neck area which on my guitars can get complicated.

Thanks for the replies. I am looking for something handheld. Not one of the production oriented big jigs. In fact with my current favourite search engine (https://duckduckgo.com) I found this plan right here: http://www.mimf.com/archives/binding_jig2.htm What I am looking for is a reasonable price commercial jig in this category. I don't really want to make something myself although this seems petty easy to do.

I used a jig like that for years. They work fine, most of the time.... It will make a deeper cut than it should if you tilt the instrument up and into the bit, so you have to make sure both bearings contact the sides at all times during the cutting. I used a downcut spiral bit with it, so the ledge was very clean. I used mostly acrylic for it, as you can see, but plywood or whatever would work equally well. You can skip the bearings and the fine adjustment (in/out) screw, if you like. The point is, you can make a jig like this in a couple of hours, and it will work as well as any, once you get the hang of it; they all work on the same principle.

I got this binding router attachment from Kenneth Michael Guitars. Pretty simple design - the base rides perpendicular to the side and the paddle/outrigger (I have no idea what to call it) rides on top. IThe outrigger is flexible enough to accomodate the soundboard radius whithout throwing the base out of alignment. You hold it by the base and just steer it along. I had to do just some minor Dremal work to adapt the base to attach to my Harbor Freight laminate trimmer. Easily adjustible. I'm very happy with the results.

This was my first; for an archtop that I built for my first acoustic challenge. The outrigger is held and pivoted from the center of the body, and there's two adjustable wood rings. The size of the first is the difference in height from center to edge, and the secon controls depth of cut; though this was replaced with a rabbeting bit. Basically, it's an upside down version of the Benedetto jig...

Closeup

I have one similar to that, on the router table, that I use for arch top mandolins. Depth of cut is adjusted by how much the bit protrudes up, width is adjusted by loosening the wing nut and moving the top wooden part.




In action

I'm going to second the KMG gizmo a few replies up. easily adjustable and works very nice with my Bosch Colt.

Thanks.

The KMG gizmo is the kind of thing I have in mind. Are there any others on the market that would be compatible with the Bosch Colt style laminate trimmer?

KMG has another jig that I've been using for years, and it cuts excellent channels. I made a short vid, very amateurish, that shows how it works. You're welcome to take a look.
http://vimeo.com/29127512

I keep it simple. I use the Stewmac cutter/bearing set in a laminate trimmer and just let the router base follow the curve of the back (and top). After that cut, I follow with a purfling cutter and clean up the cut by hand. That corrects the uneven depth of cut caused by the curve of the back (and top).
(Mandolins, I do differently. I use the spindle sander before gluing the plates to the rim and clean up with the purfling cutter.)

I use a...well, nevermind.

Don Williams wrote:I use a...well, nevermind.

I think I know....