MIMF

I'm wondering if any one knows where I might go to have a couple hundred tailpiece string studs made from 5mm nickel silver rod as per the sketch below. I am prompted to ask by the Mini-lathe thread in Tools & Jigs and especially David King's description of the Hastinge lathe being able to make the same part over and over once set up.

The stud, commonly used on French Selmer style guitar tailpieces, both historically and still today, is primarily used to anchor loop end strings, but can be used with ball end via the hole through the middle. It is attached to the tailpiece by peening over the stud at the bottom. I am hoping to make my own tailpieces for my guitars.

Craig,

You might try posting that drawing on http://rfqwork.com You will reach the eyes of hundreds of machine shops simultaneously and hopefully get some serious bids. You might as well post the rest of the parts at the same time. The flat parts can be waterjet cut or laser cut for very little. I'd to link to sources of nickel silver as some machine shops won't know where to start looking for that.
http://www.metalliferous.com is ones such supplier.

Michael Gurian might be able to do it.

Thanks for the suggestions guys. Had a look at the RFQWork site, very very interesting, thanks for the suggestion. And yes, I do need flat plates cut out for the tailpiece bodies and laser or water jet is just the thing. Regards Michael Gurian, I worked for Gurian back in the early 70s in New Hampshire. I'm sure he doesn't remember me, I bought a bunch of purfling from his company this summer, very good transaction.

You might try Stuart Keith Guitars in Spokane.

Pat

One more person who comes to mind is Bruce Johnson of Johnson's extremely strange musical instruments down in So Cal.
If the concave sides could be a constant radius that might save some time.
I'd be a little worried about the peening operation. I'd recommend drilling a center hole in the bottom and using a rivet setter to secure the pins to the plate. You should specify that the nickel silver should be dead soft or half hard to prevent cracking that could turn the pins into projectiles under string tension.