Thinking about using a router for more stuff

[Doug Shaker]

Right now, I avoid using a router as much as possible. I have an old Rockwell bought in 1979 that has plenty of power and, er, plenty of noise and applying it to something designed to produce sound is, well, impressively loud. But there is some stuff a router does that it does so well, I am getting drawn in.

I am thinking about getting a router table to sit on the right-hand extension of my table saw. No extra space, a stable platform, seems like a good idea.

But right now my current method of getting a bit out of my router is to (1) loosen up the collar on the collet, (2) pull on the bit, (3) bang on the collet a little to see if that loosens its grip on the bit, (4) turn the router bit side down and rap the collet some more, then repeat steps 1 through 4 until the bit falls out or at least loosens.

It seems to me that this method will be impractical if the router is attached to a router table. I suspect I am, shall we say, lacking in router technique. Can someone suggest a better way to change bits?

[Dave Gibbon]

Hi Doug, we don't have Rockler here in the UK, but there is a product made in the USA called either "musclechuck" or "eliminator chuck" which I have fitted to both my Trend and De Walt routers which works really well. If there is one available for your Rockler I can highly recommend it. Basically it replaces the router collet with a different type of collet which is tightened/loosened with a sort of allen wrench which only needs about 1/4 turn to be effective. You can find the details on the Woodrat web site, hope this helps.

[Trevor Gore]

Bite the bullet and get a new router. The Triton ones have a double acting collet where the first turn loosens the lock, then there's a 1/4 "loose" turn then a second 1/4 turn ejects the bit. The Tritons also have a built in router lift so you can make height adjustments (as well as bit changes) from above the table. There are two Triton routers, both fairly big, so best table mounted unless you are also into big carpentry. I have the larger one, which I leave table mounted but also have about 10 other routers/laminate trimmers dedicated to a variety of uses. Whatever router/trimmer you end up using, make sure the bit runs concentrically. Most of the cheap ones don't due to cheap and nasty collets.

[Greg Carter]

Buy a dedicated router for the table. I use a Porter Cable 690; it was $100+ (new) well spent. Easy to get the router out; easy to change bits. I've not looked back since doing that.

Greg

[Barry Daniels]

If you are going to be routing big stuff, like solid body guitars and or necks, then you might want to consider a router with a 1/2" collet. These are much more rigid than a 1/4" router and will cut cleaner and more accurately.

[Doug Shaker]

Thanks for the advice, folks. I am, in fact, intrigued by the Tritons. They seem to be engineered for router-table use. Besides the chuck that is designed to not get stuck in the router-table position, they also have an elevation system that designed to make changing bits safer and easier while in a router table.

I have a Bosch palm router that is less adrenaline-inducing to use than my old Rockwell Delta. Does anyone know if the Tritons are (relatively) quiet?

I will also look at the Porter-Cable 690.

Thanks for the advice, folks.

[Trevor Gore]

Does anyone know if the Tritons are (relatively) quiet?

Quieter than a 70's or 80's machine, for sure (I have some of those) but you still need hearing protection. If quiet is a serious buyer value for you, there's the Festools (and the price) and still the need for hearing protection.

[John Sonksen]

I have an Elu and a newer DeWalt that both have the newer type collet. I haven't had a single bit get stuck since I've had these and that makes me very happy.

[Hans Bezemer]

I'm using a Triton router (the biggest) and I'm very satisfied with the results.
The noise level is ok, but I always use earprotection when routing.
One of the big advantages is that, although it is big, it also works great using it free hand.
In Europe the price / value ratio is very good compared to other routers.

[Darrel Friesen]

My Bosch EVS 1617 has been a workhorse over the years. The collet seems to be one of the best designs out there. It releases when initially loosening and then releases again to allow effortless removal of the bit.

[Clay Schaeffer]

Hi Doug,
If your Rockwell router looks basically the same as the PC 690, it is the same router. Rockwell bought Porter Cable, went out of business, and Porter Cable reemerged as Porter Cable. I have an old Rockwell and it takes the same collets (1/4 and 1/2 inch) as the 690. The newer collets have a snap ring that holds the collet on to the nut, and as you loosen the nut it draws the collet out of the bore. Buying a new collet might solve the bit removal problem, although a sharp rap on the collet nut usually works fine.
If your router has a round top it is probably the same as the PC100. These only took a 1/4 inch collet of a different design. Good machines, but not as versitile as the 690 type.