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Calling guitar REPAIR experts

Posted: Mon Jun 24, 2013 6:38 am
by Murray Kuun
Unusual for me, I have 2 repairs that I need some advice for.

1) For a client that lives thousands of miles away, his Ibanez classical bridge has come off, but pulling out upto 1mm depth of wood away in places. The right way is to scrape until both surfaces are 100% flat but time is an issue, he is flying back soon. Could I re-glue (say, with epoxy) in the exact position without scraping? Ii does "jigsaw" fit quite well.

2) My Norma Jean archtop has developed a crack directly under the tailpiece, I'm almost sure it is moisture related. The crack is about 120mm long from the back saddle forward. Without having to try to remove the top (as I do on violins) how is this repair best done?

Thanks,
Murray

Re: Calling guitar REPAIR experts

Posted: Mon Jun 24, 2013 7:37 am
by Clay Schaeffer
I don't claim to be an expert, and others may suggest better methods, but here goes -
For a quick repair on the classical, clean as much of the old glue off of the mating surfaces without disturbing the fibers that are stuck to the bridge, and reglue with HHG (or titebond if HHG isn't available).

To repair the arch top you can rehumidify the seam to help it close. Place cleats under the seam by threading a needle and thread through the top where you want the cleat to be attached and fishing it out of the soundhole. Push the needle and thread through the cleat , remove the needle from the thread and tie a knot in its place. Put glue on the cleat and pull the cleat into position with the thread keep tension on the thread until the glue sets ( a good reason to use HHG) then clip the thread off flush with the sound board. I think I saw this method in Hideo Kamamoto's repair book, and I believe Mark Swanson also mentioned it. I've used it for lute tops. Pick an inconspicuous color for the thread.

Re: Calling guitar REPAIR experts

Posted: Mon Jun 24, 2013 10:04 am
by Michael Lazar
Hey Murray. Clay's approach to the Classical is exactly what I have done (and would do in this case). The needle and thread idea for attaching the cleats to the cracked top is something I haven't heard of but it makes perfect sense to me.

Mick

Re: Calling guitar REPAIR experts

Posted: Mon Jun 24, 2013 11:50 am
by Murray Kuun
Thanks, i dont know whst the one glue type is but i did import some titebond.

Am having a problem understanding the needle and thread method, but ill re read it 100 x till i do.
The split is not on the seam, its about 15mm away.

Re: Calling guitar REPAIR experts

Posted: Mon Jun 24, 2013 11:57 am
by Simon Magennis
I had my first low humidity crack this winter. Naturally the only relatively expensive Spanish guitar I own. Humidity dipped below 20% before I realised it. A long crack opened up, perhaps 2mm wide. Really frightening. I decided to humidify and give it to a pro to fix. After treating it for two or three days, it closed up so tight that I can only find the line with difficulty if at all. So for now I am leaving well enough alone.

Re: Calling guitar REPAIR experts

Posted: Mon Jun 24, 2013 1:44 pm
by Barry Daniels
Instead of thread, I use a fine guitar string with a ball end under the cleat. The string can be tensioned with a tuner mounted sideways in a block of wood (first shown in Teeter's repair manual). Once the glue cures, the string can be heated and pulled out.

Re: Calling guitar REPAIR experts

Posted: Tue Jun 25, 2013 11:53 am
by Greg Steil
I have done the string/tuner thing a bunch of times, and I always try to remember to attach another string/thread to the end of the string that is at the cleat. Makes it a bit easier to retrieve the bit of string. Especially handy if you are working insie an arch top instrument of any kind. I have also made my self a WAY deep cam clamp, and on the bottom jaw, I shaped it to a pyramid shape, and at the tip installed a very sharp tiny nail. The cleat will stick to the point, and you get your positien and grain orientation right on. Hey wait should this be in "repairs" aaarrrggghhh

Re: Calling guitar REPAIR experts

Posted: Wed Jun 26, 2013 1:38 am
by Michael Lewis
Just remember that glue works to hold wood surfaces together, not so well on old glue.

Is the top wood spruce, or cedar? Cedar has a rather low strength of adhesion and will need to be soaked with glue to help hold it together, especially if the area has already been disturbed. Excewssive dryness will put a tremendous shear load against the glue joint between the top and bridge. (oh yeah, and the braces too)

Re: Calling guitar REPAIR experts

Posted: Wed Jun 26, 2013 8:49 pm
by Greg Carter
Norma Jean?!? That stunning model of intelligence, grace and style that had me slack-jawed when you introduced her to us?!?

Sorry, but based on my many years of experience (staring at pictures wishing I could just touch whatever guitar was in the picture), ...your guitar is beyond help. Send her to me and I will ensure that she is taken care of in her final days on this earth. I have seen your guitar grace these web pages and I can assure you Norma (may I call her Norma?) will be truly cared for. I have made this offer a couple of times for a select few ... cases... and no one has taken me up on it, so my studio is prepared and ready for this type of final care and love (strings, guitar stand, Fender medium picks on a little tube amp when she feels like talking a little, those sorts of things). Trust me; Norma will be well-looked after. Please include the hardshell case, too. After all, it's only fitting.