jig for gluing bindings; you'll figure it out

[Bob Hammond]

I didn't have enough patience and hands to apply hot hide glue and then fiddle around with short sticky bits of tape to hold the binding in place. The jig is a MDF baseboard that was traced around the body, sawn out, and then screwed down to an oak tongue that was clamped to my bench by the tongue, so that I could reach all the way around the box. It also shows how gum bands and golf tees can be used to >gently< apply pressure where it is needed. Gum bands can be added or cut off as needed, and it's easy to lift one or several bands to wipe away excess glue. As a bonus, there's less probability of tearing wood fibers out of the surface of the soundboard. The cost was not much, and it worked for me.

[Michael Lewis]

Bob, I have never heard of them called 'gum' bands, where are you from? I have always heard them called rubber bands or 'ligas', but then I'm from California.

Regarding using hide glue, you can do a section at a time. It takes longer to get the job done that way but it will hold 'like hide glue".

[Bob Hammond]

Oh, the term 'gum band' is a figure of speech from my hometown near Pittsburgh, PA. There are other curious colloquialisms that are unique to that region. I think that 'gum band' comes from the German word 'Gummiband'.

[Bill Raymond]

...and in Minnesota they call them "rubber BINDERS".

[Mario Proulx]

Rubber 'band'???

[Tyko Runesson]

Looks neat! I also got tired of using the tape so I started using bicycle tube for gluing bindings (with hot hide glue). Don´t use any sort of fancy jig though...

[Mark Swanson]

That's good, I have to save that one.

[Bob Hammond]

After thinking about it for day or so, I think it could be improved. At present, I did one side, and then waited for the glue to set before moving to the other side. Another option would be to add a bar with pegs that spans the length of the soundboard parallel to the centerline, and the bar would be supported by blocks screwed on the form/tongue near the tailblock and neckblock and lie close to the soundboard. This would make it easier to apply the bands, and allow one to work on one side and then move right away to the other side. It would also allow the use of shorter bands which are cheaper and easier to find. The bands in the picture are size 7. Incidentally, I drilled the holes deeply around the perimeter with a #13 bit so that there is a snug friction fit, but some still popped out. If this were a permanent jig, I'd glue them in. Hmm, it's funny how temporary jigs become permanent, so maybe I should glue them in now.

Another thing, is that maybe very small plastic right-angle blocks could placed under the bands to direct the pressure on the binding. I've thought about using corner beading for wall paneling, and cutting it into 3/8 or 1/2" lengths. One eight foot length of corner bead would be enough for 3 forms.

[Christ Kacoyannakis]

Has anybody ever used the technique of applying the hide glue to both surfaces, letting it dry and then taping or banding the bindings in place. This allows you all the time in the world to get the alignment right. After that, you reactivate the hide glue with a steamer. I saw this technique used in one of the lutherie magazines by a fellow who repairs basses (can't remember his name, but he is very well known). Anyway, I am planning on trying it on my next binding job.

[Bob Hammond]

Chris, I'm glad you posted that. I was thinking the same thing. On the first section that I glued there was a spot that I didn't get quite right the first time, and so I put a small drop of water on the joint and then applied a clothes iron with a puff of steam. I was able to loosen the piece and reposition it and hold it with a fingertip until it was stuck. But first I shielded the other spots with a double layer of aluminum foil because I didn't want too much heat or steam in other places.

[Bob Hammond]

I thought I'd add some words about other things that I've learned:

1. I guess that modern rubber bands aren't what they used to be when they were brown latex gum bands. The ones in the pic are latex, but I needed more and so I bought some parti-colored ones at Office Depot. They break much easier than the latex gum bands.

2. The golf tees must be glued in (ask me how I learned that), and they may break with too many bands applied. A coated outdoor deck screw maybe a better choice, I think.

3. About sizing the pieces first with hide glue and then using a hot iron to bond: I think that the idea has merit, but I think it will take some experimentation to make it work properly. I'd do some extensive testing before I operated on a valuable instrument.