MIMF

I am considering a 1st-time project trying to build a mandolin with a Savart violin type triangular body. My thought was that this style body would simplify my first attempt, but be a step above a cigar box instrument. I am a good carver, so I am not too worried about making the neck. Does anyone have any opinions or tips before I start? Or is adapting this odd violin style to a mandolin seem like a dumb idea? I have in my wood collection some beautiful 1/8" quarter-sawn redwood I was going to use for the sound board, with the back and sides probably of black walnut. Planning on buying a Stew-Mac fingerboard and hardware, including truss rod.

Any thoughts would be appreciated
Ralph Geary

A Savart-style mandolin starts approaching a balalaika with doubled strings. You might want to investigate those. I have seen round, oval, rectangular, guitar-shaped, gourd-backed, and banjo mandolins. A triangular box is not that far out there! Just keep the box volume about what a "normal" mandolin would be. Walnut and redwood should make a nice instrument.

For what it's worth, the only difference between a Savart-style mando and normal mando is a few bent sides. Walnut bends easily. Don't be afraid to try it! One thing we tell most builder is to build what you want. If you want a Savart-style mando, go for it! If you want a more traditional shape, go for that. Learning new skills is a part of this hobby/profession, and there is no time like the present.

I've never seen a Savart style mando (or violin, for that matter), much less built one, but one of the simplest "traditional" type of mandolin I know of is the Army Navy style. For one thing, you won't have to worry about so many corners, corner blocks, and neat joinery at those points

https://www.google.no/search?q=army+nav ... 66&bih=837

I applaud your plan to build from scratch and use materials that you already have, but if you decide to build an AN mando and cut even more corners Stewmac even sells a kit.

Jim/Arnt,
Good points, thanks for the advice. I probably will go for an AN style and experiment with bending. Any opinions on a good heating system for a beginner to build for bending? I really want to build from scratch for the experience, and as a carver shaping the neck is something I am looking forward to.

Arnt: Regarding wood, I just wanted say how much I enjoyed your post on preparing native spruce for soundboards. Truely inspiring.
Ralph

Any old iron pipe, 1" diameter or larger will do. Heat it with a propane torch, or some form of electric element, and there ya go!

An A/N mandolin's shape is so simple, that the ribs(sides) can actually be glued to the blocks without any pre-bending(assuming they are thinned to .060" to .070" and aren't highly figured), and will/should take the correct shape, which a simple inside or outside(outside preferred) form will help to maintain until you have one or both plates glued.

I'm a big fan of large soldering irons or halogen lamps in the pipe rather than blazing flames. We have a number of discussions on building pipe benders in our Library.

Even simpler is to bend using a large frying pan with an inch or so of boiling water in it. You have to flex the wood enough cold to get part of it into the water, which should be no problem with thin wood for mandolin sides. This quickly heats that part to "real" bending temperature, and you can bend it, move the wood along to another section, bend again, and repeat as necessary. You can quickly get a side bent well enough to go into a body mold this way, using equipment you probably already have in your kitchen.

I bent the sides for this instrument and its twin using that method:

The skillet licker mandolin model? <g>

You might consider making the instrument to fit a standard case unless you want to make the case too.

Go ahead and make a hot pipe of one design or another. Mine is just a charcoal starter bent and crammed into a pipe (all held in a vice). Look through the library and pick out a setup you want to try. If you are going to continue to make instruments, learning to bend on the pipe now will serve you well. Walnut will bend like butter once you get the feel for it (and get it thinned down properly).
My first instrument was built kinda’ like a martin backpacker so I could avoid side bending for my first attempt. For my second instrument, I bent the sides with a somewhat successful method involving hot water, and a heat gun (oh and burnt hands and plenty of patience). After that, I bit the bullet and tried the hot pipe. I immediately wished I had been brave enough to try it right from the start.

Bryan,
Thanks for the advice. I had been pondering using my heat gun, but now I will go ahead and start with the pipe bender. I like the idea of the electric charcoal starter.
Ralph

let us know how it turns out. I run my charcoal starter through a dimmer switch to help dial in the temp BTW.