MIMF

Hi Samuel, sorry it took so long to get back to you on the binding jig. I have been extra busy at work ( 2 board meetings, the Survivor final, the American Idol final, and two new pilots), I was able to work on my projects at night, and a little last weekend, but haven't posted anything this week. The binding jig is very simple (maybe too simple), but it works if I pay attention to what I am doing. Look at the picture below. I have marked one surface as "A". The key is to keep "A" flush against the sides of the guitar as you route. The jig is just some oak I had. with a tongue and groove routed into it length wise so it will slide forward, and lock down with the bolts and wing nuts. The depth is set with the router. I cut an angle in the bottom piece so the angle of the top won't be a problem. It is simple but it works. The trick is to set it up right, and KEEP "A" flush with the guitar sides. I always route a test on some scrap, and check the fit before I route the guitar.

Here is another shot of the jig (close up).

OK, back to my projects. I routed the dovetail mortise on both the travel guitars using another jig I made from plywood.

A view from the top.

The dove tail mortise.

Next I cut the peghead angle (14 degrees) from the neck block, and prepared it for the glue up.

Here I am gluing the scarf joint .

After gluing up the neck heel, I route the dovetail tenon using another jig from plywood. I try to get a close fit but leave it a little too large so I can fine tune it to fit.

At this point I fine tune the fit, being carful to check the neck angles, both right to left, and back and forth, making sure the action will be right.

I glued wings onto the neck for the peghead.

Next I shaped the neck, using mostly rasps and sandpaer.

Here is a shot of the neck fit from the back.

My local hardwood dealer gets fretboard "rejects" from Fender, and sells them, 5 for $20.00. I use them to make all sorts of things, bridges, trim, and in this case I found three that had enough "good" area to use for these fretboards.

I cut binging for the steel string fretboard from some scrap maple I had. I think I will not put binding on the nylon fretboard (I have to decide that this weekend). Here is a shot of the steel string travel guitar with the neck in place, and the fretboard taped on.

For the last couple of weeks I have been working on a dulcimer for my boss of 38 years. (who is retiring in two weeks) I also had two board meetings, and sat on a scholarship committee, so I havent posted any updates. In between everything, I did get some work done on my challenge projects. I am happy with the way they are turning out so far. After checking the fit, I glued on the necks.

I decided not to bind the nylon string neck. Using a fret mitre box, I cut fret slots in the two fretboards.

I double checked the fretboards for angle and string action, making sure the action will be right. I then glued on the two fretboards.

Here is a shot of the peghead on the nylon string travel guitar.

Last weekend I was able to glue in position markers on the steel string guitar,glue in side markers on both guitars, put a radius of 16" on the steel string guitar, finish sand, and spray 7 coats of Mohawk vinyl sealer, and 5 coats of Mohawk gloss instrument lacquer on both the travel guitars, and the tenor uke. Here are a few shots of the travel guitars as they are now.

This is the nylon string from the side. It seems to have a deeper tap tone than the steel string. I think this one is going to have a nice voice.