Reject wood guitar? Prototype?

[Clay Schaeffer]

The bridge is made in such a way that the strings can slip out under the back if it when the guitar being put in travel mode. I use a bridge with a relatively small footprint and use small bolts (located under the pearl dots) and glue to secure it to the top. Before removing the strings I place a "bag clip" that I have modified with notches around the strings to keep the strings from tangling. The nut is also modified to hold the strings in place.

[Clay Schaeffer]

A gig bag can be a handy way to transport it as the neck part of the bag can be pinned over when the guitar is in travel mode and should allow it to be used as "carry on" luggage on airplanes. If you are careful when cutting out the port the grain can be matched with the rest of the sides. A strip of purfling or end graft can be used to move the port pieces out enough to fill the gap created by the saw kerf.
One advantage to using this type guitar as a "test mule" is it offers easy access to the inside of the guitar.
Using the traditional 12 fret to body versions allows the neck to fit inside the body with standard scale lengths and normal sized pegheads.
If you have any questions I will answer them as best I can.

[Steven Smith]

I say go for it. You will learn a lot and that's always good, I think. I've re-topped two, It's a fair amount of work but worth it if the back/sides are good. In both cases I ended up having to do a complete refinish of the box to get it right but if done better that might not be necessary. I have a 000 cutaway on the bench now that needs a new top and I'm going to try to do a drop in retop and save the binding (mad rose).

[Matthew Lau]

After hearing a Sting video, I think that I'll do a terz travel guitar.
The defects should be outside the zone of wood used.
As for body--I'll shamelessly copy Clay's guitar. http://www.mimf.com/library/Clay_Schaef ... -2008.html

Does anyone know how clay is doing? I hope he is ding well.

[Clay Schaeffer]

Hi Matthew,
Aside from the usual aches and pains of an old man in his dotage, I'm doing O.K. , although sometimes I do think senility is creeping in: The pictures I posted at the beginning of the thread were of a Dread and a - Size 1 - not a double O (When I looked at the link you posted to the old discussion I realized my mistake ).
A terz guitar might make an interesting traveller. I have a couple of old ones - a Bay State and a Washburn if you would like tracings. The Washburn is pretty tiny. They were both intended to have gut strings. I also have an old figure eight head "quint" guitar, but that size is close to a tenor uke - guitalele (thinking about it - the guitalele is really just an updated quint guitar ( I just added that to the wiki)).
Another Plantilla I am fond of is the Gibson LG 3/4 size. It is shorter than a size one but slightly wider in the lower bout. I have built them with a 21 inch scale length and a bit deeper than the originals and had good luck tuning them in the terz range.

[Matthew Lau]

Hey Clay,

I was looking for your info, and was going to email you...see how you've weathered the natural disasters... now I see you're alive!

Would you ever think of taking a commission?

I have been torn between wanting to build instruments, and feeling guilty not having time.

Also, how has your pinless bridges held up?
I was afraid it would sheer off the top (like what happened to my classical guitar #1.

On a side note, do you guys have a recommendation for a top for terz/size 1 guitars? I have some engelman, redwood, Adirondack, yellow cedar, and can get other cedar. I will be reusing the camatillo rosewood.

[Matthew Lau]

The bridge is made in such a way that the strings can slip out under the back if it when the guitar being put in travel mode. I use a bridge with a relatively small footprint and use small bolts (located under the pearl dots) and glue to secure it to the top. Before removing the strings I place a "bag clip" that I have modified with notches around the strings to keep the strings from tangling. The nut is also modified to hold the strings in place.

Solved the sheer concerns. Very clever! Reminds me of Kif's solution.

[Clay Schaeffer]

Hi Matthew,
Although the bridges did stick pretty good I found they were close to the limit and over zealous tuning could take them past it. So I added some tiny bolts. I was looking at Michael Greenfield's pinless bridge design which uses a slot in the- middle- of the back and doesn't compromise the footprint as much, and I think I can modify it to have a semi traditional look and add string slots that will still allow the strings to slip out of the back. About 39 minutes into this video you can see his bridge design.
http://youtu.be/sAeXskZHC2o

"Would you ever think of taking a commission?"

Occasionally I build instruments for people (or I might even have something on hand). I usually offer them "first refusal" - which is to say the person has the opportunity to buy it after it is done but is not obliged if they don't like it. But it has to be something I am interested in building (I build a number of different instruments) I try not to put too much skin in the game for either side - so no 2K back and side sets or $1000 tuners, etc. This also keeps my prices on the "low end". You can PM me if interested and we can discuss it further.

"I have been torn between wanting to build instruments, and feeling guilty not having time."

You shouldn't feel guilty - frustrated maybe, but not guilty. Since it is a hobby you should pursue it at a relaxed pace and not feel pressured by it

"On a side note, do you guys have a recommendation for a top for terz/size 1 guitars?. "

If you are stringing it with steel strings and traveling about with it I would use a semi-tough wood like spruce (some Engelmann is fairly dense and tough). If you are going to use nylon strings and not beat it up too much, western red cedar might be a good choice. I haven't used yellow cedar so I can't comment on that. Redwood can make a nice top but I think it splits along the grain easily, so might not be good for a traveller.
The camatillo rosewood should make a fine looking terz.

"

[Matthew Lau]

Hey Clay,

PM sent.

I'm still going to see how feasible it'd be for me to build a guitar (or ukulele) on my own.
It'd be a bit tough though, as likely I'll be building in front of my office or something....been trying to work out a portable workbench for this stuff.

Anyways, I'm glad that you're alive and building guitars.