MIMF

Peter Wilcox wrote:

Greg Kindig wrote:Set the bridge so that the center of the saddles adjustability range is on this line.

No, set the bridge so that the most forward part of the saddles' adjustability is on this line. Compensation for the saddles will always be behind this line.

Peter - just so I don't mis-interpret - adjust the saddles to their highest intonation (placing them as close as possible to the nut), and placing the bridge so that saddle position lines up with the scale length. I've never done any actual measuring when setting the intonation, and didn't notice where the saddles ended up with reference to the scale length...

Steve Sawyer wrote: Peter - just so I don't mis-interpret - adjust the saddles to their highest intonation (placing them as close as possible to the nut), and placing the bridge so that saddle position lines up with the scale length.

In a word, yes. I usually place the bridge an extra 1/16" or so toward the nut, in case I measured wrong.

I don't want to belabor this topic, but I want to make sure I do this right. I have attached a photo of my bridge and have drawn a yellow line on the intended scale line +/-. If anyone has concerns or other thoughts please let me know. Thanks!

I would put the yellow line (scale length) through the treble saddle (the one on the right).

Because with compensation, actual string length will be a hair longer than nominal scale length.

Take the time to draw it full scale. Go to FretFind2D, print out a template, and cut it out. Put the scale template on the body sketch and move it up and down the centerline to get your heel location. Consider fret access and strap attachment point in relation to the neck position. Then, as suggested, adjust your saddles to the ends of the intonation screws, and locate the bridge so the high 'E' touches the uncompensated bridge scale line.

At least, this advice works for bridges with equal intonation screw lengths. Looking at this Tele bridge with graduated intonation screw lengths, though, would others agree that it might be better to set the bridge to the 'D' saddle? There is plenty of saddle travel back, but the screws on lower strings might be too short if the treble screws are the reference point. I've not used a bridge like this.

Thanks for the good tips and I have already drawn it full scale. Would it be more interesting if I now moved my construction of the guitar to another section of the forum, maybe detailed builds?