MIMF

I don't know how much help this will be but I'll share my build.

I used the Grellier plans but changed to a 13-fret neck join, m&t bolt on neck, Martin 25.4" scale, and deep body Nick Lucas dimensions from the Gibson Fabulous Flat Tops book - my interpretation of the Santa Cruz H13. Black Walnut back & sides, Lutz Spruce top, HOG neck with Honduran rosewood fingerboard & bridge. I did tapered bracing per the plans.

I then thinned the perimeter of the top to lower it's "monopole" frequency in loose accordance with the Gore/Gilet books.

So there were a lot of deviations from the plan but I'm very happy with the sound. Unfortunately, I'm a hack player and I've never played a "real" L-00 of any incarnation so I can't compare. This guitar is loud, has deep bass response and good sparkle on the top. It's not as lush as a good sounding Dred but definitely holds it's own & is able to cut through. If any of you are in the central Ohio area, you're welcome to play it. I realize that I was pretty vague on specifics so if there are any questions, please ask.

Enough rambling, here are some pics.



Kevin Looker

Well Winter and tons of snow are good for some things! Progress so far. Waiting for Go Bar rods to brace top and back. Suffering from approach avoidance syndrome on the neck though. Will be first truss rod attempt.

I build a mahogany / Engleman L-00 for my niece about a year ago using the free Grellier PDF plans.

I followed the brace positions shown in the plans pretty much exactly since I didn’t change the scale length (24 ¾”) or the neck body join (14th fret). I really should have double checked everything.

The position of the bridge plate depicted in the plans places the bridge plate behind the bridge, so that the front of the bridge is not located over the plate. As drawn, the bridge pin holes will pass though the plate, but only about 3/16” or 1/4” behind the front edge of the plate.

Unfortunately, I didn’t notice this situation until I started to glue on the bridge. I ending up leaving the plate as shown in the plans. The guitar seemed to sound very good, but I think I’d fix this on the next one.

I’m not sure if the offset between the bridge and bridge plate shown in the plans is a feature or a bug. I suspect it just reflects the imprecise construction of the original guitar on which the plans are based.

OK, pitfalls. I made a scarf join jig using 14deg. I seem to have wound up with way more angle that I thought(once I put my template against the block. Now what? How much of a problem will that sharp angle be(if any)? One step forward and two steps back....

Well, we can't answer unless we know how much angle! Do you have a photo, or anything?

well, the angle is 14 deg. I guess I got that number from the all knowing web, in a search of "Gibson headstock angles". Angle on the plan(GAL is under 10 deg) Hoping it is still usable, meaning no risk of hyoid fracture. Onward through the fog...

14 degrees will be fine. In the post above it sounded like you ended up with something greater than 14 degrees.

Just FYI, MIMF has a really great "L-OO" plan.

I have them...and prefer them over anything from Stewmac or Luthier's Mercantile.
Mark is too classy to mention that --he drew them!

Actually MIMForum member Jamie Unden drew them, from my design and layout. Me, classy? Haw!