Removing an Ovation bridge...

[Martin Bell]

Hey folks! I have an Ovation Celebrity with a broken bridge that needs to come off. Aside from the bolts, I have read that Ovation glues the bridge directly on the finish, and possibly with CA. Would a heat lamp be enough to soften the glue? Thanks!

[Mark Swanson]

No, if the bridge is ruined just chisel or route it off.

[Martin Bell]

Will do! Thanks for the quick reply...

[Mark Wybierala]

Yup, ditto with my answer to your question. I always revert to using more traditional wood to wood contact when I reattach the new bridge. I remove the existing finish on the top about 1/8" inward from the bridge perimeter and create a step on the bottom side of the replacement bridge in a matching pattern to address elevation issue and enable wood to wood contact. Correct style and size bridges are available from Ovation and Allparts. This is a common thing to happen to Ovations and usually a gravy job unless the bridge has actually given way under string tension and ripped up the top in its departure.

[Martin Bell]

Well, I did order a bridge from Allparts... and it is slightly undersized! I then ordered a replacement part through my local Ovation dealer... and for some reason, it appears to have been misplaced. I guess I should contact Ovation directly. So if I'm going for wood to wood contact, Titebond will suffice? And is it possible to remove an Ovation bridge in one piece? This one had already snapped, but in the future...

[Mark Wybierala]

I use Titebond with 100% success. There are usually plastic locator pins on the Ovations that I've seen. Two of them, about 3/16th" in diameter. Stay on top of getting the bridge from Ovation and if you continue to have problems, call them direct -- they've been super helpful with me over the telephone and if you get them on the phone, ask for a couple of those unique Ovation saddles and shims. They'll most likely toss 'em in with your bridge gratis. ...nice folks.

When removing a bridge, you always try to get it off in one piece without taking chunks of the top with it. Anything is possible. Luck has a lot to do with it sometimes.

[Michael Lewis]

If you decide to glue the new bridge in the factory manner (CA gel) you would want the finish intact. For this I would rout the bridge off.

If you are going for wood to wood contact I would tend to rethink it and go with the original design. These guitars were made by a company that was big in aerospace and helicopter blades, and were designed by engineers. Most Ovations are doing just fine the way they came from the factory.

If the finish is already disturbed under the bridge then go for the wood to wood joint.

[Martin Bell]

Well, if I can get the bridge off without disturbing the finish, I will CA it. If not, Titebond seems the way to go. I think I will wait until I actually have the new bridge in my hands before I even start this job. Thanks for the advice everyone. I will keep you updated.