Tsimbl/hammered dulcimer newbie questions, part 1

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Matt Wulf
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Joined: Wed Jul 24, 2024 1:54 pm

Tsimbl/hammered dulcimer newbie questions, part 1

Post by Matt Wulf »

My son and I are getting organized to build a tsimbl (a type of fully chromatic hammered dulcimer found in traditional klezmer). This is the first from-scratch instrument for either of us, so we’ve been reading up on HD construction and trying to piece together a plan. We are thinking of using the tuning scheme from James Jones’s 13/12 student tsimbl as a starting point.

I have more questions than can fit comfortably into one post, so I’ll start with a few about the soundboard. I’d value any insights or suggestions at your convenience.

1. Floating or fixed?

In most dulcimers that I’ve seen online, the soundboard is fixed, or glued immovably to the rails and pin blocks. Sam Rizzetta’s Smithsonian article suggests a floating soundboard, held in place by the pressure of the strings on the bridges.

I like the idea of the floating design for a few reasons:
  • Freedom to expand/contract would reduce risk of cracking due to seasonal humidity changes
  • I’ve read that it makes the sustain shorter, which would help with faster tunes
  • No need to cut soundholes
Questions:
  1. Do these reasons make sense?
  2. Are there strong counterarguments favoring a fixed soundboard?
  3. Is either design easier technically?

2. Material and thickness

I was thinking of 1/4” birch plywood, as it’s
  • relatively inexpensive, and
  • available in sheets large enough that we wouldn’t have to deal with edge-gluing
Questions:
  1. Is 1/4” (or 0.22”, which I’ve seen listed as the actual thickness of a 1/4” board) thick enough?
  2. Are there any other materials we should consider that would still avoid edge-gluing or reducing the thickness manually?

Thanks,
Matt
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Jim McConkey
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Re: Tsimbl/hammered dulcimer newbie questions, part 1

Post by Jim McConkey »

Welcome to the Forum, Matt!

I unfortunately build the other kind of dulcimers (Appalachian) and have no personal experience with hammered dulcimers, but I have heard of builders using both floating and non-floating tops, so you should be fine either way. Sam Rizetta is a very well respected builder and I wouldn't have any doubts taking his advice. 1/4" for the stop seems right in line with what I have heard others. The biggest issue I have heard of is people using wood that is too soft for the pin blocks. Make sure to use hard maple, oak, etc. The pins will loosen quickly in softer woods. Hopefully others with more experience will show up here soon.
MIMForum Staff - Way North of Baltimore
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Charlie Schultz
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Location: St. Louis, MO

Re: Tsimbl/hammered dulcimer newbie questions, part 1

Post by Charlie Schultz »

I've built a couple of HDs, one with a floating (redwood) top and one with a fixed (spruce) top. They've both held up fine and I put sound holes in both. I don't think one is easier than the other. Both tops were about 1/4" thick, but I did have to edge glue them up.

You might also check out our library here: https://www.mimf.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?p=18277#p18277. One search suggestion is "hammered dulcimer floating" (leave out the quote marks).
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