Almost consistently bad glue joints...

[Alan Carruth]

In the beginning I used Titebond for almost everything, and still use if for a number of joints that I think of as 'permanent', such as the back center join and cross grain reinforcement. It also has the advantage there due to a somewhat longer working time than HHG. I use hot hide glue for braces; partly for the lack of cold creep, and partly so they can be easily re-glued if they ever do come loose. I also use HHG for side tapes, as it's easier to use for that than Titbeond, and seems a bit stronger in my limited tests. To round out, I use HHG for the liners, which go over the tapes, with the hope that will give a better bond.

I use epoxy for the upper block, which has end grain against the sides the way I do it. The lower block is Titebond. The top and back go on with Titebond as well, for the working time, and because I don't see those as 'removable' as they are on, say, a violin.

If I'm making a laminated neck, either a stack for the heel (seldom,these days) or a 3- or 5-piece center joined, I use Titebond 3. I'm told it has less creep than Titebond1, but mostly it's a habit I got into before I started using bolt-on necks, to help hold things together of the neck had to get steamed off. The fingerboard gets glued with T1. I make about half of my guitars with a V-joined head, an use HHG there. The lack of creep is part of it, but more than that I like the low shock resistance: if the head gets knocked the glue line breaks, rather than wood, and the repair is easy. I know this from experience.

Bridges go on with HHG.

You can see that I'm not a 'purist' on glues (or much else, for that matter). I try to learn as much as I can about the advantages and drawbacks of all of the materials and methods I use, and choose the ones that seem to work best on a rational basis. I don't claim to know everything, and am always learning, or, at least, I hope so.

[Dick Hutchings]

I like you're reasoning on v-joints. I may try that sometime. Thank for the tip.

[Mike Spector]

You said that this one "came back" . Where did it come back from? Maybe your technique was bad or the glue was bad but the owner might have had a little something to do with it also. Also, how long had it been since you built it?

[Darren Rahilly]

It had been 2 or 3 years. I offered to fix it for him. Its certainly possible it could have taken some knocks, life happens. Also possible my technique wasn't perfect. I do like the idea of the glue being bad. Left in a cold basement shop for who knows how long. It was a gallon size bottle.

[Steve Sawyer]

To add to Alan's comments, I did a build a couple of years ago (Lester with ebony FB, mahogany set-neck) where I used fish glue. It avoids the short shelf-life of liquid hide glue (I also keep it under refrigeration), and is more convenient than HHG.

[Peter Wilcox]

I've started using fish glue for some things this last year - wood bindings, cracks, gluing in rosettes, and I even flattened and reglued an old Martin pick guard (that was already impregnated with wood fibers.) It has a quick tack, a long set time, non-staining, and easy water clean up. I haven't used it for any structural applications as I have read there are questions about its long term strength.

[Steve Sawyer]

I haven't used it for any structural applications as I have read there are questions about its long term strength.

Yeah - we'll see how this goes. Of course, at my age, I could begin assuming room temperature long before any issues become evident!

[Alan Carruth]

I stopped using fish glue to tack down the end of the fingerboards on bolt-on necks when I found out how hard it was to get the stuff loose dry. Hide glue is brittle and will fracture, but not the fish glue. I wonder if that has to do with the fact that it doesn't gel the way hide glue does?

On the other hand, I've seen reports on line of failures in fish glue joints under prolonged high humidity and warm temperatures. That mirrors the sorts of problems I had with liquid hide glue in the past, which lead to my dropping the use of that.

[Steve Sawyer]

On the other hand, I've seen reports on line of failures in fish glue joints under prolonged high humidity and warm temperatures. That mirrors the sorts of problems I had with liquid hide glue in the past, which lead to my dropping the use of that.

Hopefully that won't be an issue for me. SE Michigan isn't known for excessive heat or humidity. It can occasionally get sticky here in the summer, but it's a handful of days out of the year. So far I have three guitars built using fish glue on the fingerboards, and no sign of anything loosening up yet.

[Alan Carruth]

I have used fish glue for binding for a long time, with no problems so far. I'm just not sure I trust it for something structural.

[Steve Sawyer]

I have used fish glue for binding for a long time, with no problems so far. I'm just not sure I trust it for something structural.

We’ll see. I also used it to set the neck on my Lester. Will be sure to report any issues that arise!

[Jarno Verhoeven]

Gotta say, can imagine it is heartbreaking to get back a guitar in which glue joints are failing in several places. I wonder if he has gotten back more of his builds.
One thing I thought of, is the humidity at which the guitar was stored, that will have an influence.

[Alan Carruth]

Guitars are not made to be disassembled, even if they're glued with hide glue. I've successfully used hide glue for everything at one time or another. I suppose if I kept at it I'd be more used to it, but I've opted to minimize some hassles.

[Barry Daniels]

Titebond is quick and easy and does have a degree of removability. It has been used by major and minor guitar factories for years. The open working time is also much longer than hot hide glue. It is what many of us old guitar makers grew up with. Not a lot of downsides in my book.

[Alan Carruth]

In theory, you can soften Titebond joints with water, but I've always found that the wood goes to mush before the glue lets go. When you can use heat that will work as well, as anybody can attest who's left an instrument in a hot car... Acetic acid will break down Titebond and similar glues. I once spent five hours getting a top that had been glued with Titebond off an upright bass, using hot, somewhat spent, photographer's stop bath, which is much stronger than vinegar. Note that with this method you have to use a stainless steel knife, as regular steel will turn the wood black, and you're still left with the need to get all the old glue off. Compared with hide glue Titebond is not really 'removeable' in a practical sense.