What is the bassier resonator guitar.

[Max Debelleix]

Hi everybody.

Well, i haven't been in here for a loooooonnnggg time.

I have a crappy resonator guitar. Compared to my homemade jumbo, it uterly lacks bass.

What would you recomend as a real bass heavy reso guitar?

Thanks a lot everybody.

[Brian Evans]

I don't think there is such a thing as a really bass heavy resonator. I would look at the Paul Beard models with his baffle system, you can email Denny there and ask - he is a nice guy and expert on resonators. Beard does make an acoustic bass resonator, so they have explored that option. I have a 1935 Dobro and a Gold Tone Paul Beard Signature, they are both not very bass heavy, more mid-rangy in tone.

http://www.beardguitars.com/contact-beard-guitars/

[Max Debelleix]

Thanks a lot Brian. That has been a while since i heart that name Paul Beard. I don't know how his instruments sound. Really, i've spent a fair while on youtube, and mostly, what i hear, as bassier, is biscuit cone guitars. Even more the latest lighter gauge metal bodies. I have a cheapo spider one. From steiner. I have changed the tuning machines. Tho, may be i should do an effort, and make a bone nut. Raise the strings a smidge too.

Any opinion on making a bone saddle? I don't know if the maple is any good.

Thanks again.

Max.

[Lincoln Goertzen]

Maple for saddles is fine, or maple capped with ebony . Upgrading the tuners won't get you much of a tone upgrade, unfortunately. You're better off to replace the cone and spider with a Replogle or a Quarterman. Holding either of those beside a cheap cone will reveal a dramatic difference right away.
Biscuit bridges tend to be more midrangy than spider bridges.

[Mike Conner]

One thing to consider is the adjustment of the screw connecting the spider to the cone. This has a big influence on tone. I'm coming from the square neck Dobro perspective with the typical heavy strings, but I am certain the same things apply to a round neck with typical acoustic strings.

Before you start, do the best you can to confirm the cone is centered in the supporting ledge and not tight against the wall of the ledge - that can rob some volume.

To adjust the screw, with the strings up to pitch, back off the screw until it feels loose, then back in until it starts to get snug in the threads. This is your "zero load" point. Then, tighten the screw (clockwise) slowly and test play, keeping track of how many turns you have moved from zero. A typical Dobro has about 1 and half turns. Too tight, and the tone is chocked off and sustain can suffer. Too loose, and you can rattle. Your ear will be the judge. Might as well try this since you aren't happy with the tone as is.

Some other factors:
- Heavier strings are better than lighter, usually.
- When I do a dobro setup I disassemble to remove the spider and ensure the legs are in a flat plane and contact the cone edge evenly. (Some good information as to how to do this can be found online).

//mike

[Max Debelleix]

Thanks a lot guys!

Mike, cool to see you're still here.

[Mike Conner]

Thanks Max. Real life has put my building somewhat on the back burner (preparing for retirement, etc.). Still doing some setups though. But more lurking than posting. Resonators are a niche breed, so I had to jump in on this one. Let everyone know how it turns out.