frets don't overlap binding on vintage instruments??

[Brian Evans]

Strictly speaking this is a fret/binding question, not an archtop question, but I want to relate this to my archtop guitars,so...

https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pKpJVWMPnBM/ ... hutt-4.jpg

This is a 1920's Harmony mandolin and you can clearly see that the original frets don't overlap the multiple (three) ply binding. I have a 1940's Epiphone guitar with binding, the frets also don't overlap the binding. I've seen the same effect on many photos of vintage instruments. We're now taught to overlap the binding by trimming the fret tang, using multiple layers of binding and slotting the inner layers, etc. I happen to really prefer the look of the vintage style but I'm not sure how to achieve it. I can think of two ways - bind the fretboard first, trimming the tang, installing as normal for "new look" but without slotting the binding, and dressing the frets back from overlapping the binding, which seems kind of unwieldy, or binding the fretboard after installing the frets. Anyone know how this is actually done? I have read (on the internet so it must be true) that Epiphone did bind the fretboards after fretting in that era, but I really don't know... In a production setting, they would have looked for the quickest way to achieve a good result, I am sure.

Thanks, Brian

[Barry Daniels]

Maximizing string spacing by using all available fretboard surface for frets is one of my goals. I even go to the extent to use a steep angle (20 degrees) on the fret ends to this same end. The difficulty with the approach you are describing is that the fret ends would need to be beveled or rounded before the frets are installed. This is more work and you can never get the fret ends perfectly aligned like you do when you bevel after the frets are pressed. I really don't see the benefit.

[Freeman Keller]

I think you should try it before you actually build such and instrument. Take a junker (or one that you are planning to refret) and file the frets back 0.100 or so from the edge of the fretboard. Play it, if you decide you like it then go for it.

Personally I think I would hate it. I thumb fret which means I typically bias my low E closer to the edge, and I play a bunch of slide which means I tilt the slide while playing on the first string and I would be hitting wood. I also happen to like wide necks and wide string spacing in general.

Plus it looks like a total PITA to build

[Gordon Bellerose]

In my opinion, much like Barry, the binding would make the neck wider than needed to achieve good string spacing.
Perhaps on a small instrument like a mando it wouldn't matter much.

I can only speak for myself, but I can feel a small difference in width more than a small difference in thickness.