Well, it's definitely not setup for 220, but I'm not sure if it's setup correctly for 110, either. I'm not an electrician, nor a motor expert, so hopefully someone else could give better info.
In the pic, each of the Line inputs ("L") appears to be connected to 3 other wires:
Line on the left is connected to:
- a wire from a bent-inward tab, going into the motor casing (above the nut, not visible in pic). Is there indeed a wire here?
- Terminal 5 (screw)
- Terminal ___ (other screw) Is there a number under one of the plates?
- The Black wire, which should go to the start circuit/windings
Line on the right is connected to:
- a wire from a bent-inward tab, going into the motor casing (above the nut, not visible in pic). Confirm there is a wire here?
- Terminal 2 (screw)
- Terminal 3 (screw)
- The Red wire, which should go to the other end of the start circuit/windings
So the windings are clearly not wired in series, so it is not wired for high voltage (220). BUT, the connections and numbers do not exactly correspond to the NEMA standard diagram on pages 8-9 of the link I gave before. The main difference is NEMA never connects 2 and 3 for low voltage (110), whereas they are bridged in yours. Possibly, the motor isn't following NEMA. I did find a similar diagram to yours, though, Fig 4 here:
http://www.metalwebnews.com/howto/elec- ... c-mtr.html
With a dental mirror and flashlight, can you check the wire colors going to each of the terminals, on the back of the plate? That should help figure out who is who.
On the problem getting to 2000rpm, it seems unlikely that speed w/ no cutting load would require more than 1 HP. It sounds like, on startup, once the start winding disengages (click), the run winding is unable to *even maintain* that speed, so speed drops, the start winding clicks back in, repeat. Does that sound consistent with what you see? For sure, there is a max torque dropoff above the click, but it should still have at least 200% of its rated torque at that point.
I can think of a few causes:
1. A problem with the run windings. Possibly, only 1 leg of the run winding is producing torque, which would explain how it is feeble above the click. This could be shorted insulation, or simply miswired (above).
2. The centrifugal switch is cutting the start winding out at too low an rpm. Unlikely, though it's possible if a spring is weak.
3. The gearbox oil is very viscous, or some other drag in the drivetrain in that gear.
Instant reverse is indeed nice. DC with the right controller can also do it. If 3PH, I'd favor a 220V 3PH motor and VFD. Motors are less than $100 on ebay. Locally, a lot less. Older VFDs aren't much either. The least $ solution I know of is to find a broken treadmill: Usually 2HP DC motor and matched controller, often for free. That controller can't instant reverse, though one that can is about $50.
On metric, yes, a DRO of any kind, at least for the X-axis, is the best solution by far. Even it were already English, a DRO is the best solution by far! So metric gives you even more reason to go DRO. Outside of that, for that Logan, I made a new cross-slide screw using precision acme... not too hard, especially if you happen to have a... lathe?
) but, that >$3k figure is probably a figure for a turn key servo kit or something like that. A DIY conversion could be done for easily well under $500 for a NEMA 34 (a guess as to the motor size) two axis stepper setup. Control computers can usually be found in dumpsters and control software like EMC2 is free.
<ducking....>