What's the best fix for a broken dovetail on a Gretsch archtop?

[Fren Asken]

A client brought this in with a loose neck, and here's why. What's the best/right way to fix this proper? Or at least your most successful way. I have all the bits and pieces.

[Brian Evans]

Part of the decision would be new or old gretsch. A far east made instrument isn't going to have the same intrinsic value as a vintage US made instrument, and might influence the decisions. Some Gretsches had neck bolts from new, and I wouldn't particularly worry about adding a single bolt low on the dovetail with good access through the pickup rout to get at it. Rebuild the neck block and maybe add two dowels for reinforcement. Here is a 1975 Gretsch with a kind of funky neck bolt arrangement. https://antebelluminstruments.blogspot. ... untry.html

[Barry Daniels]

Never seen a break like that. I think you have two options.

Option 1: Try to glue the headblock piece back into place and then reinforce the joint with some small hardwood pins glued into drilled holes. You might even use epoxy on that part depending on how well the part fits and how clean the parts are. If they fit well and are clean then hot hide glue would be preferable. Then reglue the neck using traditional techniques and glue.

Option 2: Replace the headblock which would require removal or the back or top.

Brian is correct that old Gretshes usually had a neck bolt but it was installed from the outside of the heel.

[Bill Raymond]

"Here is a 1975 Gretsch with a kind of funky neck bolt arrangement."

That's not really a neck "bolt", but a wood screw that is driven through the heel and makes up for a possibly ill-fitting dovetail. Gretsch seemed to have some problems with their neck joints and took to using the screw as a "belt and suspenders" solution. Some were driven through the heel and others through the the side in the cutaway; both types had a filler or dowel to hide the head of the screw. The guitar shown at your link has the neck rod adjustment at the back of the guitar under the triangular cover plate; the neck screw would be through the heel in this instrument.

[Stephen Neal Saqui]

I'd go with Barry Daniels and add a couple of suggestions.

If the block does not fit perfectly at the break then rough the two surfaces and use epoxy with light clamping using tape to hold it in place till setup. I doubt wether it would need reenforcing, but if you don't agree then use hardwood dowels loose fitted and epoxied well. You don't want your reenforcing to create it's own compression stress and break the joint.

When you refit the neck, use chalk so you can see the fit. I would refit the neck carefully using maple shims that are glued to the neck and slowly fitted in place with chalk. When you're at the closure point and have been checking the neck angle, then use hot hide for the final gluing.

[David King]

Also if possible use a real epoxy, not a 1:1, 5 or 15 minute type from the hardware store/hobby shop.