Side Bending Improvement

[DJ Parker]

Hello All,

Well, this time I have re-thought my side bending jig and have made what I think are improvements. I take no credit for design of this one as it came to me through an article from Wells Guitars (a very fine site!). When I initially built my version of this bender I left out the slot that most folks use to 'sight' the center of the waist making it easier to see what was going on. I kept thinking..'fix that jig' but just kept putting it off until now.

I have been making all or part of most of my jigs and templates with plexi-glass so I thought, what better way to see what was going on than make this thing transparent. Instead of re-building a completely different style of bender or buying the LMI one which I happen to like, I just re-worked the Wells version to suit my needs. So, here it is.

I still have the springs to add but you'll get the idea. I hope it inspires others to comment on their versions and evolutions. One of these days I am actually going to get my second guitar complete and stop with all of these jigs

Thanks for looking

[Jason Rodgers]

I have been making all or part of most of my jigs and templates with plexi-glass so I thought, what better way to see what was going on than make this thing transparent. Instead of re-building a completely different style of bender or buying the LMI one which I happen to like, I just re-worked the Wells version to suit my needs. So, here it is.

It certainly looks cool. I don't know much about plexi's limits with heat, but with that screw pushing down and upwards of 375deg F coming off a blanket real close, I'd worry about it weakening and cracking.

One of these days I am actually going to get my second guitar complete and stop with all of these jigs

Ha! Good luck with that. (Don't ask me how I know this.)

[Mark Swanson]

That looks like a good idea! I wonder how strong it is. I know that when I do a bend, the wood, blanket, and two slats of metal take a good amount of pressure to screw down. Maybe 1/2" material would be stronger.
And I think I may not use plexiglas, I would use transparent aluminum instead. <G>

[DJ Parker]

Thank you Mark,

This plexi is 3/4" and actually feels stronger than the plywood I had previously used so downward pressure isn't or shouldn't be an issue. I'm bending some side sets this week so I'll keep you posted.

Jason mentioned the heat and I really didn't give that a thought as there is no physical contact between the blanket and the plexi but it certainly is something to keep an eye on.

Regards

[David King]

With 3/4" I think it will be more than fine. Is it polycarbonate (Lexan) or acrylic (lucite/perspex/plexiglas)? The former is much tougher and will stretch before it ever cracks.

[Greg Steil]

boy howdy, how do you cut 3/4" stuff?

[DJ Parker]

Well Greg, I have a friend who owns a Laguna CNC and I have complete access to AutoCad so cutting the 3/4" stuff is a simple procedure. Thanks for asking.

I meant to point out the little dark piece of wood on the platform. There is one on both ends. It's just a little piece of Walnut CA glued down. They hold the form in place so it doesn't slide back and forth. There are actually two more that you can't see centered on the platform. They are more inboard and those hold my ukulele form in place.

Regards

[Mario Proulx]

I just use a clamp.... Not in the way, and as transparent as your plexi. Also no springs....

K.I.S.S.

https://youtu.be/sUJbB0pa7Zs

[DJ Parker]

Thank you Mario,

I viewed your YouTube and I like the simplicity. Had I not engineered this one I would be very happy to imitate your approach which indeed gets right to the point with a lot less stuff going on. I have to admit that I get hung up on making jigs and fixtures when I should be making guitars and ukes

I work in engineering and am a licensed plumber so I'm always trying to build the better mousetrap but there is always another way. With this bender done I'm just about done as well with jigs although I am working on a little uke brace clamp for heavy radiused backs...we'll see.

Question...I notice that you do not (or did not) use any type of temp sensor. I'm considering the LMI temp controller as the last part of the puzzle but is it really needed? I mean, I built a rheostat with a timer that I plug the heating blanket into and I can't help but think that $180 could be better spent elsewhere. Thoughts?

Here is the finished bender. I did go simple with the springs in the form of 'bungy' and the 'blue balls' add a touch color

Regards

[David King]

You could pick up a Sestos PID on ebay and put that thing together for $50 if you really thought you needed it. I'd save the PID for beer-making or an epoxy curing oven.

[Mario Proulx]

No temp sensor. I made a mark with a sharpie where it bends nicely....

[Todd Stock]

Used to use mine, but not really needed if you pay attention to when the stack starts steaming. Once there is visible steam from lower bout, it's time to bring down the waist, move to lower bout bend, then upper. By the time you are moving from the lower to upper, there's plenty of heat for the tighter bends on a cutaway and you'll still have enough steam in the stack to manage it if you don't dawdle.

[Greg Martin]

Does this guitar not have a cutaway?

[DJ Parker]

This guitar is a 000 size non-cut.