Fixed bridge advice needed...

[Perry Colomb]

Hello All,
I have lurked on here for years and recently decided to get off my butt and finish what I started! I need a little bridge advice for a "PRS" that I am in the beginning stages of building. It will be a carved spalted maple top on a mahogany body but with a non-angled neck. I have always been a fixed bridge player (for the most part) and would like to some ideas? Maybe your favorites?
I

[Robert Smallwood]

These have some 'pros':
http://www.warmoth.com/Gotoh-510-Stud-M ... 4C706.aspx

Only two holes
no need to offset the holes
very comfortable
look good

possible 'cons'
might be too narrow some some people
can be fiddley to correctly locate the holes
some people object to wrap around bridges per se

[Perry D. Underwood]

It will depend on what you're thinking of when you say "fixed bridge". A Strat hardtail bridge is where each string can be adjusted for height and intonation. This type of bridge does not require a neck angle or a very slight one.

If you're thinking of the PRS style wraparound bridge, those do require a substantial neck angle unless you inset the bridge into the body or have the neck very high off the body. There are several nice ones.

Schaller 455 Very well made but the posts and bushings are not standard size, so nothing else fits if something goes wrong with one. Sold at Stewmac.

Wilkinson Lightweight PRS style bridge This can be purchased at many online stores. Guitarfetish is more expensive, but they include a set of posts that are locking.

Wilkinson/Gotoh bridge. Stewmac sells this bridge. It's nice but only available in nickel.

Of the three bridges, the Schaller is more forgiving of placement since its range of adjustment is greater. I've used all three. They all work well, but intonation may be better--or at least easier to dial in--with the Schaller.

[Eddie McRae]

I used the Wilkinson lightweight with adjustable intonation on this particular custom build. For the most part, I was pleased with it. The one drawback that I can note is the fact that the adjustment set screws are extremely small and the allen head sockets will strip very easily if you're not careful. It does require some back angle in the neck though. Recessing the post bushings will drop the bridge an extra 1/16" or so which would help to eliminate some of the neck angle needed. From there, a slightly shallower neck pocket could compensate for the action desired. You should consider though, that a shallower than normal neck pocket will raise the neck thereby leaving a gap under the fretboard overhang. You'd have to construct a shim to fill that gap.

[Perry Colomb]

I guess the thing to think about is should I include a neck angle instead of going with a straight neck. I worry about the string tension being "off" I guess. This would be so much easier learning from an experienced builder. On the bright side, I have quite the impressive pile of shavings accumulating

[Mattia Valente]

I second the Gotoh 510 wraparound recommendation. I also like the Wilkinson units, but the 510 is in a different league. More 'off the wall' but cool option is Hipshot's Baby Grand. Or a Pigtail wraparound.

I'm note terribly fond of full tunomatic+stop tailpiece setups or flat mount non-trem start bridges in terms of aesthetics. And Tele bridges look kinda wrong on things that aren't telecasters.

[Greg Robinson]

Perry, whether or not there is any angle to the neck, headstock, break angle at the bridge or nut, afterlength, NONE of this changes the string tension. The only factors that effect string tension are the gauge of the string, the pitch it is tuned to, and it's vibrating length. Not something you need to be concerned about.

[Perry Colomb]

This is advice I really needed. The neck angle is something I would rather deal with some other day. I think a straight neck with a slight angle on the headstock is much more doable. The body is almost done so the neck is next. Thanks to all that helped me with this newbie situation.