Basic Question: Fingerboard Binding?

[Chad Schmidt]

I'm in the process of applying the finish to a guitar and have a basic question; this is my first time finishing on my own… For background, here's what I've done so far:
- Masked the fingerboard and fingerboard binding with 3M blue painters tape. The body is unbound. The fingerboard binding is ivoroid.
- Applied clear sealer coats, primer coats and color coats. I'm using nitrocellulose lacquer from spray cans. The color I applied is copper tone metallic.

I'm at the point now where I need to peel the masking off the fingerboard binding and start applying clear coats. My concern is that peeling the tape may cause chipping of the applied finish. I see a few options, please offer any advice on pros/cons or alternate processes.
1. I could simply peel the tape and see what happens. Is it likely that the finish will chip? The last coat was applied about 12 hours ago.
2. I could score the finish at the tape interface. However, there's enough buildup of finish that I can't clearly see where the tape seem is located. Also, since it's a metallic finish, I'm under the impression I should try to avoid contact with the finish until after I have a couple coats of clear built up to prevent knocking the particles down. I'm not sure how I could hold the guitar securely while scoring the tape seam.
3. I could spray a couple coats of clear to protect the metallic finish and then score the tape. This seems like a reasonable option, though it means I now have a couple more coats built up over the tape.

My apologies for such a basic question. I'm sure I'm over thinking this. Anyway, thanks in advance for any advice offered!

[Michael Lewis]

So much depends on how much build up of finish there is over the tape. If the finish is fairly thin the tape should be able to be peeled off carefully, but if it is thick you may be in more difficulty. You may be able to pull the tape at a low angle off the fingerboard binding, so you don't lift the layer of lacquer up off the surface. I think you are getting experience now, and will prepare with more knowledge next time.

[Todd Stock]

I pull the tape immediately after the last color coat tacks to the point where it does not 'string' when pulled, then scrape the edge on the binding to get a hard, clean edge. If your finish is dry, suggest you shoot a coat of clear along those edges, wait until it melts in and tacks, then pull the mask. With rattle-can, wait for 1-2 hours, then scrape to a clean line on the ivoroid. Don't ever plan on getting a clean line with opaques and tape - great if you do, but more often than not, lacquer will creep or your tape job will not be perfect. A little work with a razor blade scraper is pretty much expected for cleanup.

On the more general issue of masking and shooting fretboards, I fret after the guitar is finished and assembled, so makes it easy to mask about 1/8" inside the edges on the face of the board after color is on and scraped. Shoot the clear, then after everything is sanded and buffed, pull tape, final sand board, lightly bevel the fretboard edge to prevent any blowouts while knocking the frets in. Final edge bevel on frets cleans up the lacquer edge.

[Chad Schmidt]

Thanks for the input Michael and Todd! For closure, here's what I did…
First off, I had a lot of coats built up on the tape so there was heavy lacquer coverage. I pulled the tape trying to keep a low angle, though the tape had gotten so brittle this wasn't really possible. As expected, I ended up with significant chipping along seam. I've sanded back the finish in this area to smooth the transition and I'll try again using lighter and fewer coats and pull the tape soon after the last coat. I'm also expecting to do some scraping prior to clear coating.
I am certainly gaining experience!

[Todd Stock]

Worth scoring the finish when there is a thick buildup from finish...also, always pull away and in the plane of the finish.