new arch top build
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Greg Martin
- Posts: 308
- Joined: Thu Feb 23, 2012 7:18 pm
new arch top build
Ive completed after my first arch top commission after 15 months,and now Im gathering materials for my next one. I have a large billet of red cedar sold to me as old growth, and a river or lake sinker,it has very tight grain, it has been drying now for 12 years and seems like a very nice top. Im wondering what type of tone i can expect from a cedar top and old growth as well. does cedar need to be carved thicker or thinner than spruce? do braces need to be made differently .The rims and back will be black walnut.
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Barry Daniels
- Posts: 3232
- Joined: Thu Jan 05, 2012 10:58 am
- Location: The Woodlands, Texas
Re: new arch top build
I would think cedar should be thicker because it is not quite as strong as spruce.
MIMF Staff
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Randolph Rhett
- Posts: 349
- Joined: Mon Aug 06, 2012 5:19 pm
- Location: San Diego, CA
- Contact:
Re: new arch top build
I would suggest rough carving to whatever you would spruce (for eg 1/4") and then do your final tap-tuning carving. You may end up a slight bit thicker once the top is tuned, but not so much that you would want to rough carve significantly thicker. That was my approach on a redwood archtop, and it worked out well.
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Greg Martin
- Posts: 308
- Joined: Thu Feb 23, 2012 7:18 pm
Re: new arch top build
Randolph thanks Ill do that but ill start at say 5/16 cause im a little heavy handed with my rough carving.
I wonder if youd post the name of the company that supplies the composite s you use. also what method do you use to cut and sand the composite? I use composite stiffeners and it destroys any band or hand saw blade right a way.
I wonder if youd post the name of the company that supplies the composite s you use. also what method do you use to cut and sand the composite? I use composite stiffeners and it destroys any band or hand saw blade right a way.
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Randolph Rhett
- Posts: 349
- Joined: Mon Aug 06, 2012 5:19 pm
- Location: San Diego, CA
- Contact:
Re: new arch top build
I buy my CF sheets, epoxy, core material, etc., from ACP Composites in Los Angeles. Great prices and great selection. Rods, bars or tubes I get from eBay. Your typical Chinese specials.
I cut the CF plates for soundholes/profile/pickups with a 1/8" spiral downcut carbide bit (all cut on the CNC machine) at 20,000rpm and about 50ipm. These are not expensive bits, and seem to cut just fine even after cutting 10 or so tops. For the binding channel I use a 1/4" spiral downcut carbide bit. There I do notice dulling more. Can't explain why.
As for the rods and tubes, all cut with a cheap hacksaw blade. Yes it dulls the blade but they are dirt cheap. If I was doing dozens and dozens of guitars, maybe I'd need a better solution. Now, all I have to do is figure out how to create a demand for dozens and dozens of my guitars
I cut the CF plates for soundholes/profile/pickups with a 1/8" spiral downcut carbide bit (all cut on the CNC machine) at 20,000rpm and about 50ipm. These are not expensive bits, and seem to cut just fine even after cutting 10 or so tops. For the binding channel I use a 1/4" spiral downcut carbide bit. There I do notice dulling more. Can't explain why.
As for the rods and tubes, all cut with a cheap hacksaw blade. Yes it dulls the blade but they are dirt cheap. If I was doing dozens and dozens of guitars, maybe I'd need a better solution. Now, all I have to do is figure out how to create a demand for dozens and dozens of my guitars