Inlay block pearl without removing frets?

[Jedi Clampett]

For the record. I used the library search engine first before posting topic.
It is a telecaster style guitar that the neck is getting gibson style pearl block inlays.
I bought the pearl block inlay set from stewart macdonald using a link here.

For obvious reasons, I want to inlay the pearl set without removing the frets.
I have never done inlay before.
I am betting you guys have faced this situation alot.
what is your experience.

[Rodger Knox]

It probably can be done, but it won't be easy.
I did something similar and ended up pulling the frets to level the inlays.

[Barry Daniels]

If you have never done inlay, this is not the way to start. I have inlayed many dozen fretboards and have never inlayed a fretted board. Not saying it can't be done, but I am saying it can't be done well.

[David King]

I've added 1/4" dots to plenty of fretted bass fingerboards but blocks on a guitar would be very difficult with the frets in the way.

[Jedi Clampett]

ok, good advice will pull frets and then learn to do a fret job.

[Jedi Clampett]

do you think it would be easier to just remove the fretboard and buy a slotted fretboard? fretboard are not that expensive.

[David King]

If you can get the fretboard off in one piece and use it later somewhere else then that sounds like a reasonable plan. A flat fingerboard is easier to do an inlay in -then radius afterwards.

[Barry Daniels]

I don't see much advantage in removing the fretboard. In fact, it is that much more work. In order to inlay into a radiused fretboard simply build up some masking tape rails on the outside edges of the fretboard so your router has a flat base to work on. Also, be sure to use at least .060" thick pearl or the radius will thin the edges too much.

[Bill Hicklin]

Hmmmm: Barry, you may be onto something there, even for inlaying a fretted board in situ. Just cogitatin' here, but what about a jig which holds the neck level, with fixed rails on both sides for the router base which are just a whisker higher than the fret-tops in the center? That way you have solid registry, and a constant horizontal reference for mortise depth.

[Barry Daniels]

The problem with inlaying between frets is not the routing part (although what you described would work). It is the leveling, sanding, and polishing part. This needs to be done with the grain of the fretboard and sanding up to the hard edges of a fret is simply unworkable.

All this work around to avoid having to pull and replace the frets is the wrong approach. This would be a good time to learn the essential skill of a refret, and you will end up with a much better inlay.

[Jedi Clampett]

I believe you are right, paying for tools is a big problem for me. I have finished one elect guitar and have about 6 of them in various stages of completion. I want to do inlay work, but don't have a dremel base, but I do have a little router for finish work and a couple of demels, some old german fret saws and bought inlay blades for them. I have a little compressor from a cpap machine, but no magnifier, no dremel base, but I do have router bits for the dremel and glue and pearl. So, doing a fret job adds all kinds of tools to buy, which delays work. However a dose of reality is good and better to face reality than to screw up what I have already built.

[Bill Hicklin]

Refretting doesn't really *require* many tools at all, and you may already have the essentials. A small hammer (brass or steel) , with one face polished to mirror gloss. A good metal straightedge. A new 25-30 cm mill file, dead flat. A couple of jewelers' ("Swedish") files, usually sold as a set for not much. Ordinary end- or side- cutters

Yes, there are lots of nifty specialized tools which make the job easier, faster or just more expensive, but you don't actually need any more than Torres used.

[Barry Daniels]

Fret installation is the most basic skill in lutherie. But you don't necessarily need a lot of fancy tools. There are a lot of things you can make or adapt to avoid the big check to SM.

Also, it is possible to make your own dremel base, but SM's precision base is well worth the cost.

Edit: I see Bill beat me to the post.

[David King]

I find a soldering iron awfully handy for heating frets when pulling them. A grinder or sander to flush grind your $4 end nippers (4" nippers are best). You can skip the polished hammer face, just sand it with some 400 grit until the big scratches and dents are minimized. You can make sanding blocks and skip the file. Any steel or aluminum ruler will be straight enough, buy a 36" one and cut it into different lengths. I use 24" for bass and 18" for guitar. A 6" and a 3" are nice to have to find tall or low frets. A triangular jewelers file for the fret ends (sanded smooth on one corner.)

A complete refret kit should be possible for around $25 and a little time investment.

[Gordon Bellerose]

I have to agree with the other guys on this.
Re-fretting is a skill that must be developed if you are going to continue working on guitars; yours or others.

As you will find out, routing for inlay is hard enough without the frets being in the way.
And, inlay pieces are flat on the bottom, so the rout must be flat also. Hard to do when the frets and finger board are curved.
That is why Barry suggests the tape.

[Rodger Knox]

You don't really need anything else to do inlay, I did all this freehand with a dremel.

[Art Davila]

You don't really need anything else to do inlay, I did all this freehand with a dremel.

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I think your hand must be steady as a surgeons. no way I could free hand that. I would need a template.
Jedi
You might want to contact a guy who does scalloped necks. I have sent a couple of guitar necks out for a customer, and the guy (can't remember the contact info) returned the neck looking like the factory scalloped the fret board and inlays. The work was first rate. Sorry I don't remember the company name it was about 8 years ago. but if there is anybody who could give you tips on getting inlays in without pulling the frets it would be somebody like that were their business demands quality work.