Im going to have binding on this archtop head stock as well as the finger board. Must I use a finger board stop ala bobs book?? A finger board stop seems to move the nut forward which also moves the 14th fret location correct? His book offers no specs on this only a couple of cornfusing pics, Ive been staring at them for days .
Also while Im here--what is the optimum thickness for the rims ?? thanks
ready to rout for head stock binding question
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Re: ready to rout for head stock binding question
Short answer is NO. Figure where you want the frets to fall and install a couple locating pins between the fingerboard and neck to hold them in place while you glue and clamp it all together. The nut only requires two contact surfaces, the end of the fingerboard and the headstock. You can configure it any way you see fit as long as it works for you.
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Re: ready to rout for head stock binding question
I've never used a finger board stop.
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Re: ready to rout for head stock binding question
The fingerboard stop is only necessary if you want the side purfling continuous, running under the nut.
MIMF Staff
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Re: ready to rout for head stock binding question
ahhh the side purfling . well I dont have side purfling running along the bottom of the binding ok I get it now. no finger board stop for me . thanks
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Re: ready to rout for head stock binding question
As the others have indicated, the fingerboard stop isn't necessary. I recall have to read over and draw out what was being described in that section of Bob's book.
For the sides - optimum thickness will vary by person and type of wood. In my limited experience something around or just under .100" works well as it will bend relatively easily and has enough material thickness to allow for some clean up, which I found important on my first builds. As I've developed a better feel for wood bending and improved my setup and skill with bending I find that thinner sides are much easier to bend, so I'm working more in the .080" range now. Once I start getting the sides below .100" I do it a lot by feel of how the wood's bendability is changing as the thickness is reduced.
For the sides - optimum thickness will vary by person and type of wood. In my limited experience something around or just under .100" works well as it will bend relatively easily and has enough material thickness to allow for some clean up, which I found important on my first builds. As I've developed a better feel for wood bending and improved my setup and skill with bending I find that thinner sides are much easier to bend, so I'm working more in the .080" range now. Once I start getting the sides below .100" I do it a lot by feel of how the wood's bendability is changing as the thickness is reduced.
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Re: ready to rout for head stock binding question
The fingerboard stop is not necessary...BUT...In my limited experience the stop along with the veneer...can create for a deeper binding area around the headstock. Personally, I like the look. I'm sure there are other ways to skin this cat...but that works for me.