ready to rout for head stock binding question

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Greg Martin
Posts: 308
Joined: Thu Feb 23, 2012 7:18 pm

ready to rout for head stock binding question

Post by Greg Martin »

Im going to have binding on this archtop head stock as well as the finger board. Must I use a finger board stop ala bobs book?? A finger board stop seems to move the nut forward which also moves the 14th fret location correct? His book offers no specs on this only a couple of cornfusing pics, Ive been staring at them for days .
Also while Im here--what is the optimum thickness for the rims ?? thanks
Michael Lewis
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Location: Northern California USA
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Re: ready to rout for head stock binding question

Post by Michael Lewis »

Short answer is NO. Figure where you want the frets to fall and install a couple locating pins between the fingerboard and neck to hold them in place while you glue and clamp it all together. The nut only requires two contact surfaces, the end of the fingerboard and the headstock. You can configure it any way you see fit as long as it works for you.
Patrick Hanna
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Joined: Sun Jan 08, 2012 10:49 am

Re: ready to rout for head stock binding question

Post by Patrick Hanna »

I've never used a finger board stop.
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Barry Daniels
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Location: The Woodlands, Texas

Re: ready to rout for head stock binding question

Post by Barry Daniels »

The fingerboard stop is only necessary if you want the side purfling continuous, running under the nut.
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Greg Martin
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Joined: Thu Feb 23, 2012 7:18 pm

Re: ready to rout for head stock binding question

Post by Greg Martin »

ahhh the side purfling . well I dont have side purfling running along the bottom of the binding ok I get it now. no finger board stop for me . thanks
Geoff St. Germaine
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Re: ready to rout for head stock binding question

Post by Geoff St. Germaine »

As the others have indicated, the fingerboard stop isn't necessary. I recall have to read over and draw out what was being described in that section of Bob's book.

For the sides - optimum thickness will vary by person and type of wood. In my limited experience something around or just under .100" works well as it will bend relatively easily and has enough material thickness to allow for some clean up, which I found important on my first builds. As I've developed a better feel for wood bending and improved my setup and skill with bending I find that thinner sides are much easier to bend, so I'm working more in the .080" range now. Once I start getting the sides below .100" I do it a lot by feel of how the wood's bendability is changing as the thickness is reduced.
Chris Walsh
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Joined: Fri Jan 20, 2012 9:44 pm

Re: ready to rout for head stock binding question

Post by Chris Walsh »

The fingerboard stop is not necessary...BUT...In my limited experience the stop along with the veneer...can create for a deeper binding area around the headstock. Personally, I like the look. I'm sure there are other ways to skin this cat...but that works for me.
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