Replacing a Fret Board

If you have a string instrument of any kind that needs fixing, a mistake you made in building a new instrument that you need to "disappear," or a question about the ethics of altering an older instrument, ask here. Please note that it will be much easier for us to help you decide on the best repair method if you post some pictures of the problem.
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Robert Freemond
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Location: Van Nuys Ca.
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Replacing a Fret Board

Post by Robert Freemond »

I’ve just removed the Fret bd. on a finished neck ( KTM9) & am now ready to glue on a new one. I’ve never done this to a finished neck before & am not quite sure how to proceed.

The FB is still a little oversized with two nails holding it in place. Can this be done without reshooting, or should I plan it.
Michael Lewis
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Re: Replacing a Fret Board

Post by Michael Lewis »

It depends on how the edges of the 'old' finish are. If they are ragged you will do best to level that area and apply more finish after the new board is on. I suggest fitting the new fingerboard as accurately as you can muster and gluing it to the neck. Pins are a necessity for positioning, and you should be able to trim the board before gluing it to the neck so there is little or no trimming afterward.
Robert Freemond
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Joined: Tue Jan 24, 2012 4:11 am
Location: Van Nuys Ca.
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Re: Replacing a Fret Board

Post by Robert Freemond »

Thanks Michael, Sorry i'm so late in responding, but I did not receive a notice that my question had been answered.
I did as you suggested & am now waiting for some KTM 9. I had imagined that this could be done by a skilled tech.
without refinishing the neck. If so - It's a skill I lack.
Mark Wybierala
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Joined: Fri Feb 03, 2012 10:14 am
Location: Central New Jersey

Re: Replacing a Fret Board

Post by Mark Wybierala »

You can get really close if you are careful. If you take your time and are clever, the amount of effort to repair the finish can be minimal. Your locator pins need to be really effective and tight. I use lengths of 3/64" drill rod that I get from McMasterCarr for locator pins and I keep them in place for the entire period that the glue is drying. I remove them by heating with a soldering gun. Three or four locator pins is not overkill at all if you need to maintain a well matched fretboard in precise location to minimize the amount of trimming. I use bicycle innertube to clamp my fretboards in place and the process of wrapping the innertube can sometimes induce a sideways pull. A careful application of pastewax on the finish assists to clean up dried squeeze-out. Usually, I can apply lacquer using just cotton tee-shirt material and swipeing down the length of the joint. One swipe a day letting the undercoat dry for 24 hours so the next swipe doesn't melt off the previous and then level sand using 600 grit wet. You'll figure this out.
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