Truss rod problem

[Christ Kacoyannakis]

I have two Greek bouzoukis that I made with Allied truss rods with the Allen head adjusters. On both of these instruments, the Allen head wrench opening has become stripped out. They are only four years old. I purchased the Stew Mac Gripper wrench with the tapered Allen head to try to adjust these instruments, but they are not working. I did carefully check the rods before installation. I don't think it is a problem with the adjustment of the truss rod itself not working, but is a problem with the adjuster head wrench opening being stripped. I thought these were touted by everybody as the "best" out there. The problem is there are 8 steel strings on a bouzouki, and playing the instrument involves a lot of very fast and intricate runs, so players like very very low action. As a result, the neck sometimes moves, and the player wants to constantly adjust the action to be as low as possible.

My questions are:
1. Is there anything to be done to fix this issue, other than tear off the fret board and pull out the truss rod, and
2. Would it be better to put in a rod with a hex nut, or slotted nut or spoke nut so that if it gets stripped it can be removed or is less likely to get stripped (a bouzouki neck is pretty narrow though, like a banjo (usually about 1 5/16th at the nut), so I like the Allen head adjusters since you don't have to remove more than a 1/4 inch channel for the rod and adjuster.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance everybody.

[Michael Lewis]

Maybe the Allen head of the rod was heated too much and softened when it was welded on. You could epoxy a short piece of hex stock into the existing rod, and grip that with a socket wrench. Or remove and replace the rod.

The neck should not need frequent adjustment. The rod is for setting the relief, not for adjusting the action. The action should be adjusted by rfaising or lowering the saddle and the nut. I know it is 'common' practice to adjust the action with the rod, but it is not supposed to be used that way.

Easily adjustable bridges are nice to have. Shims under the saddle are fairly easy to change if action adjustment is needed. This is why I like the pinned bridge typical of many flat top steel string guitars, and the floating bridges on archtop guitars and American style mandolins. Do you have a pic of your bridge?

[Christ Kacoyannakis]

Thanks Michael. It is a completely floating bridge, so a shim under it is what most bouzouki players use (since almost no bouzouki makers from Greece use truss rods). I can post some pictures later today. I might try your idea of epoxying in a small piece of hex stock. Thanks for the tip.

[Chuck Tweedy]

I wonder if a broach like THIS could be used to reestablish the hex pocket - but in a larger size.
Depends on if the rod could handle the pressure.

[Clay Schaeffer]

Cutting a slot in the end for a flat head screw driver may help you get by if people don't constantly fiddle with the rod. As Michael said , it is for relief adjustment , not action adjustment. If you can't get the musicians to understand this then using rods with replaceable nuts might be your best option (use brass nuts so the nut strips before the rod does).

[Christ Kacoyannakis]

Thanks for all the advice. I can't get in there to cut a slot in the head. Not enough clearance.

Chuck, how do you use this broach, do you hammer it in or what? I am not familiar with this tool. Thanks.

[Chuck Tweedy]

The broach would normally be held in a collet that supports it from backing-in, and pressed into an appropriate sized hole.
With lube - that is what the center vent hole is for.

[Len McIntosh]

Just an FYI I just had an experience with screw extractors where one end is a hardened cutter and the other end a threaded cone that is screwed in reverse and when it in as far as it can go, you continue the counterclockwise rotation and the screw is extracted. I was extremly skeptical (the kit of 4 bits was just under $30) but the result was as advertised, no problem.
The smallest bit may work is your case.
I highly recommend them, BTW thanks Utube.

[Christ Kacoyannakis]

Len, thanks for the advice. One of the problems is that on the Allied rods, the Allen head key way (I have been told it is not proper to call it a nut, since the driver goes inside the device) does not detach from the rod. In other words, it is not like a Fender Squire Allen head adjuster where the adjuster sits against a plate and tightens the rod. These are two way rods where the adjuster head is soldered/brazed/welded whatever onto the end of the rod. Secondly, and certainly no fault of yours, but I have a set of these screw extractors. I have NEVER, EVER, NEVER, EVER gotten them to work (how is that for an endorsement). All they do is further ream out the opening where the driving device is supposed to do, and a lot of swearing ensues!

[Bob Gramann]

There was a discussion about this problem on another forum (OLF, Truss Rod Problem, last post 4/27/14) not too long ago. He solved the problem with a screw into the head of the Allied Rod. I have had the head on an Allied Rod break off before. I removed the neck and attempted to pull the rod out of the slot (since I don't glue them in). I was able to move it a couple of inches but couldn't get it all the way out. I had to remove the fretboard and install a new rod.

[Christ Kacoyannakis]

I think I saw that. Thinking of going that route. I have also seen people say you can cover you Allen key with foil to make it tighter, or force a new bigger Allen key in there, but I just fear it getting stuck (which would make it really easy to adjust, but wouldn't look that neat). Thanks. That screw trick might work.

[David King]

Take a Torx bit slightly larger than the current hole. Grind the end to a flat with sharp corners and tap it in.
The broaches referenced above are rotary broaches that need to be held at a 1-2º angle to the work while both are spun. The holders for these broaches run into the many hundreds of dollars.