Making a template
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David King
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Re: Making a template
Great point Chris. You can also add tape to the bearing and get the same offset effect.
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Chris Richards
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Re: Making a template
Hi David....
Great idea!!!! All these years I've added tape to the template, ugh!... One day I'll use my brain!
Great idea!!!! All these years I've added tape to the template, ugh!... One day I'll use my brain!
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Paul E Buerk
- Posts: 66
- Joined: Sun Jan 08, 2012 10:25 pm
Re: Making a template
Another recommendation for Baltic Birch rather than MDF, just from experience.
For pickup routes, I like to use 1/4" clear acrlyic. Since I'm using brass template guides on the router, I make the cavities 1/8" oversize. On the bottom surface, I take an exacto knife and cut crosshair lines to make it easy for lining up on center and position lines penciled in on the blank. Easiest way to make them is to print out the drawing, glue it to the acrylic, then mark the lines with the knife. Drill some starter holes, saw out the majority of the waste with a coping saw, then trim to the lines with a dremel and edge guide fence where appropriate. Since I'm using the brass guides, the corners don't have to be exact.
For pickup routes, I like to use 1/4" clear acrlyic. Since I'm using brass template guides on the router, I make the cavities 1/8" oversize. On the bottom surface, I take an exacto knife and cut crosshair lines to make it easy for lining up on center and position lines penciled in on the blank. Easiest way to make them is to print out the drawing, glue it to the acrylic, then mark the lines with the knife. Drill some starter holes, saw out the majority of the waste with a coping saw, then trim to the lines with a dremel and edge guide fence where appropriate. Since I'm using the brass guides, the corners don't have to be exact.
Re: Making a template
I agree that baltic birch is best. MDF is too soft for templates. I make my first master template out of 1/4" material because I can finesse the shape and easily sand to a perfect profile. I then use that master template to create multiple routing templates. If, down the road, you drop, nick, route your template, you can go back to the master that is safely filed away and make a new one.
I make multiple templates - for the overall shape, others for PU cavities, neck pocket. You can combine several different templates, just use your judgement as to what can be combined and what should be separated. All are registered to each other with the same screw holes. Center lines are marked on all templates. Glue up two layers of 3/8" for thicker patterns or specific areas like the PU cavities if you need more "reach" for the bearing.
For routing, I have gone to spiral bits. Straight and shear fluted cutters can catch. I learned that the hard way. The horns have abrupt changing grain. When you come around the bend and hit the uphill grain, the bit can grab. Now, I pre-sand to within 1/32" or so of my line on those tricky areas. When I rout with a spiral or compression bit, they breeze right through the tricky spots.
I make multiple templates - for the overall shape, others for PU cavities, neck pocket. You can combine several different templates, just use your judgement as to what can be combined and what should be separated. All are registered to each other with the same screw holes. Center lines are marked on all templates. Glue up two layers of 3/8" for thicker patterns or specific areas like the PU cavities if you need more "reach" for the bearing.
For routing, I have gone to spiral bits. Straight and shear fluted cutters can catch. I learned that the hard way. The horns have abrupt changing grain. When you come around the bend and hit the uphill grain, the bit can grab. Now, I pre-sand to within 1/32" or so of my line on those tricky areas. When I rout with a spiral or compression bit, they breeze right through the tricky spots.
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John Catto
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Re: Making a template
I use MDF for templates, I print out the plans (in sections if need be) and glue them on first. The main advantage as I see it is how easy it is to get a perfect curve with a sanding block. When cleaning up, periodically close your eyes and use your fingertips to tell you whether there are any bumps, what ISN'T visually noticeable on the template IS when transferred to the guitar body. What I usually do is make the template up in 1/4" MDF, when I've got it perfect and I mean PERFECT I then glue that onto another sheet of 1/4" MDF and use a pattern bit to cut the second layer to match. When done I soak the edge with CA glue to harden them up. The reason to do it in 2 stages like this is to guarantee that the sides are parallel.
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David King
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- Joined: Sat Jan 07, 2012 10:01 pm
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Re: Making a template
Using template guides allow you to use smaller diameter cutters like 1/4", 3/16" and 1/8".
Having top and bottom templates is also handy if you want to reverse the cutter direction in areas where tear-out is a potential problem.
Having top and bottom templates is also handy if you want to reverse the cutter direction in areas where tear-out is a potential problem.
Re: Making a template
John Catto wrote:I use MDF for templates, I print out the plans (in sections if need be) and glue them on first. The main advantage as I see it is how easy it is to get a perfect curve with a sanding block. When cleaning up, periodically close your eyes and use your fingertips to tell you whether there are any bumps, what ISN'T visually noticeable on the template IS when transferred to the guitar body. What I usually do is make the template up in 1/4" MDF, when I've got it perfect and I mean PERFECT I then glue that onto another sheet of 1/4" MDF and use a pattern bit to cut the second layer to match. When done I soak the edge with CA glue to harden them up. The reason to do it in 2 stages like this is to guarantee that the sides are parallel.
This is how i'm probably going to it thanks for the advice and to everyone else, this seems to be a good topic.
Just waiting for the plans to come back to me then i can get started on a template.