D16 Soundboard repair or replace?

[Patrick Thauberger]

Hello all, I’ve been a lurker of the website for some years now, and I hope you can offer some advice.
The soundboard of my Martin D16 suffered some damage a few months ago from an overzealous baggage handler- the airline immediately compensated me, and I’ve replaced the guitar, but I’d like to repair the original. I'm an experienced woodworker so I'm up for the challenge. See pics below to illustrate the damage.
I read some previous posts about the judicious application of heat, and using a hairdryer was able to (carefully) prise a small piece of the binding off, so I’m satisfied I’ll be able to take it apart successfully but before I go further I need some advice.
Should I try and reglue the top together, or just replace it entirely? Aside from looks, I am worried about the resultant tone. It’s only about 6 years old, but has sentimental value, and I also don’t want to break in a new top if I don’t have to.
What kind of glue would you recommend to repair the top?
If I can repair it, I will try to keep the top on throughout the repair.
In either case, can I repair/replace the top without taking the back off? I know in a new construction the back goes on last, but I obviously want to minimize the damage to the extent possible.
I’m not trying to create a ‘like-new’ guitar- I won’t mind the couple of dings or visible damage, and may even try to reuse the original binding for character, providing it will not look nor sound dreadful.
Can I reuse the existing binding?
Thanks everyone, Pat

[Mario Proulx]

That's a simple repair, and you didn't have to remove the binding, either. For sure, do not remove the top or back. Sheesh....

Whatever wood glue you're comfortable working with will suffice, though the best is fresh, hot hide glue.

Tone will be largely unaffected, and possibly better than before.

[Chuck Tweedy]

Is it just the top (and side) that is damaged?
It looks like there could be something damaged to the back lining in that first shot - just where the back brace lets in.

Also, how far around does the crack in the sides go. It goes "off screen" in the last shot.

Mario, for you this is an easy repair, but for someone with no instrument experience, Patrick is going to need some help if he's to do it on his own.

[Patrick Thauberger]

Thanks gents, that's good to hear.
Mario, the reason I have to loosen the binding (or thought I did) was because during the breakage the top edge popped out from underneath the purfling.
Chuck, the back damage was just pieces of broken kerfing from the top; regarding the side crack, what is seen in the pic is essentially the extent of the crack; it doesn't go as far as the endpin joint.
Cheers P

[Mario Proulx]

I can see where it popped-out, but by using a syringe to get the glue to where you need it, and well-planned clamping, it can all go back together.

For now, --avoid-- doing "test fits" until you're ready to tackle the actual repair. Every time you push two broken pieces together to see if they'll fit(of course they will; they were one piece before the wreck!), you're breaking little slivers off and worsening the joint.

You'll have to have one hand inside the guitar pushing up, and the other hand pushing down, to get some of the joints to line back up. At that point, introduce some glue, and "work" the joint a bit, to help spread the glue throughout the break. Walk away after each repaired crack; don't try to fix them all at once. Once all the cracks are repaired, glue the top back to the sides and re-fit the binding.

I say it's a "simple" repair because it is just a break. It is still complex, but you don't have any diagnosis to do, no minute adjusting, etc...

[Mario Proulx]

And please, please, PLEASE take the phargling strings off! Any time an instruments gets broken, even slightly, take the strings' tension OFF!

[Patrick Thauberger]

Thanks much Mario. I'll go get some hide glue tomorrow and give it a try. (and the strings are now off!)
P

[Chuck Tweedy]

Now we're getting somewhere!!

[Michael Lewis]

Not such a simple repair but it can be put into sturdy playing condition without too much effort. The hard part is to keep the flat surfaces flat and get all the fractured surfaces back where they came from and mated to their counterparts with glue and clamps in place. Plan ahead, and the best laid plans oft go awry.