Questions about drilling for tuners and string ferrules

[Peter Wilcox]

On Fender type headstocks with press-fit tuner bushings, I've been drilling separate diameter holes for the tuners from the back, and bushings from the front. This of course can be a pain to get the holes concentric, but I've got it down now. However, it looks like most that I've seen on the net just drill the holes the bushing diameter all the way through. I can see that the bushings and the tuner back screws would probably hold the tuners just fine - just wondering if there is a correct way to do this. I've never had a "real" guitar to see how this is done.

Likewise, on string-through instruments, the ferrules have a lip on them. It looks like from the Fender specs that this lip is countersunk to be level with the wood, but I've seen some instruments that leave it proud of the wood level. Again, even more of a pain to get concentric holes - it's hard enough to get holes that line up in the back when drilling from the front through 1 3/4" with a small diameter bit that can wander. Is there a correct way these ferrules should sit?

[Steven Wilson]

For the tuners these work well.

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Speci ... amers.html

he ferruls both ways.

[John Catto]

"I can see that the bushings and the tuner back screws would probably hold the tuners just fine - just wondering if there is a correct way to do this"

the way you're doing it is the correct way. Personally I usually drill to 6mm then use a tapered reamer to final fit.

[Art Davila]

I was told an easy way is to get a very small bit 1/16 or 1/8 and drill all the way thru.
Then use forstner bit with the point on the pilot hole, drill larger whole to correct depth then,
drill smaller hole all the way thru, no tear out to worry about.

Or so I am told I am still using finished necks till I get the confidence to make my own necks.

Also look at this tool
http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Drill ... 1&xsr=0023

[Peter Wilcox]

I was told an easy way is to get a very small bit 1/16 or 1/8 and drill all the way thru.
Then use forstner bit with the point on the pilot hole, drill larger whole to correct depth then,
drill smaller hole all the way thru, no tear out to worry about.

Yes, this is the way I do it, though using brad point bits.

That Stewmac bit in the link is absurdly pricey, and not the right size for vintage style Fender type tuners anyway. But the diagram in the link shows why I was wondering about the necessity of counterboring. I guess for tuners with a smaller diameter threaded bushing this is true, although it's better to do it right for all.

I've only made 10 necks this year, and don't expect to exceed this in the future, so the 3 step method works for me.

Thanks for the responses.

[Paul Rhoney]

I used to do the two-step holes for tuner bushings, because that's more "vintage-correct" but recently switched to just drilling them all the way through. If you ever have to refinish a neck and try getting those bushings out with a two-step hole, it's very difficult. I don't think it adds anything to the tone or functionality to have a two-step hole either.

As for the string-thru-body bridge ferrules, there are some that have a lip, others that don't. If you get the ones that don't, they are meant to sit flush, whereas the ones that have the lip will sit proud, and are not meant to be countersunk.

[Peter Wilcox]

Thanks, Paul. I guess as usual there is more than one way to skin a cat, especially if you're designing your own cat.

Regarding the ferrule holes, I was following this body drawing where it looks like the ferrule hole is countersunk for the lip. In the future I will look for lipless ferrules, as I think the lip makes them look crowded, countersunk or not.

[David King]

For the rear ferrules you can also just inlay a solid bar that has the holes correctly spaced and only requires a straight rout in the back. Hipshot used to sell them. I know I've seen them for sale somewhere.
OK I found them here, just scroll down a bit: http://www.delisleguitar.com/index.php/ ... e-standard
Here's another source for them http://killerguitarcomponents.com/compo ... l?Itemid=0

[Peter Wilcox]

"hear tones and harmonics you never thought possible!"

"This Brass monster will add sustain, balance tone and allow your strings to seat closer to the back of the guitar for easy string changing!"

Thanks for the links, David, but when I read stuff like this my BS meter pegs. Have you or anyone here installed and used one of these? If so, any audible difference? And I don't see what advantage it would give to ease of changing strings. Also, it looks like the lip needs to be countersunk, requiring an additional rout.

Also, here's a nice pic of the ferrule options: http://www.callahamguitars.com/ferul_g1.jpg

[David King]

There's no audible difference that I'm aware of. It just saves some time over doing it the old way. I have no idea why some folks insist on "selling" things that should sell themselves on their obvious merits. Perhaps they're susceptible to their own brand of hype?
I agree that the lip is a bad idea. The Hipshot ones had the dumb lip as well. I used to make them w/out the lips for a fellow here in town but he's since retired and I lost interest as they are a bit of a PIA.