So we recently had an artist testing a guitar I finished in Tru-Oil over a couple weeks. It's been hot, and he sweats alot, and has used it for several gigs outdoors. After getting it back, it has streaks/splotches that you can actually feel in the finish, I'm pretty sure from sweat. I don't think he spilled anything else on it. Has anyone else had this happen to Tru-Oil, and if so is there a good way to clean it off besides hitting it with steel wool and another coat? I have several guitars that are 8 years old that I finished with Tru-Oil and I've never seen this happen before...but then again I don't sweat on them much.
Thanks for any tips!
Tru-Oil splotch marks from sweat
- Dan Hehnke
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Re: Tru-Oil splotch marks from sweat
Some folks have sweat that rivals hot lye. They can strip Tru-oil, shellac and lacquer without even trying. I'd use West systems 105-207 finishing epoxy to fill and get a 2nd coat. I put the tru-oil over that and it looks and feels great plus it will withstand just about anything you can throw at it including acetone. You can also just sand and buff the epoxy for a high gloss but like any finish you'll want to wait a week for it to link up completely. Don't let it get warm while buffing (and don't burn through either).
- Waddy Thomson
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Re: Tru-Oil splotch marks from sweat
You really have to let a Tru-Oil finish cure for at least 3 weeks before putting it through a full use schedule. It's still not fully cured. I think I read somewhere that it has a 21 day period to fully cross link.
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Re: Tru-Oil splotch marks from sweat
I've never seen any evidence in using it that Tru-oil ever polymerizes. Perhaps it does but I can't tell the difference.
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Re: Tru-Oil splotch marks from sweat
Sorry for the newb question,David King wrote:Some folks have sweat that rivals hot lye. They can strip Tru-oil, shellac and lacquer without even trying. I'd use West systems 105-207 finishing epoxy to fill and get a 2nd coat. I put the tru-oil over that and it looks and feels great plus it will withstand just about anything you can throw at it including acetone. You can also just sand and buff the epoxy for a high gloss but like any finish you'll want to wait a week for it to link up completely. Don't let it get warm while buffing (and don't burn through either).
but I thought the epoxy finish was a top coat.
Does the the tru oil penetrate the epoxy?
Also are you say you use the epoxy as a grain filler?
One last question can you epoxy over tru oil?
I have used tint in tru oil to apply trans tint, can I finish it with the epoxy?
I have a lot of experience on how "not" to do things.
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Re: Tru-Oil splotch marks from sweat
Art,
That West Systems 105/207 is a top coat but most guitar makers use it as a grain fill/ foundation for other finishes. It kicks fast and is very easy to sand level. It has the added benefits of adding some amber tone and a decent UV blocker.
I don't think the Tru-oil can penetrate the epoxy but it can fill all the tiny scratches leaving a very transparent finish with a nice glow to it that isn't glossy.
I use the epoxy as a grain filler -yes.
You can probably use the epoxy over tru-oil if the tru-oil is completely dry i.e. for months and then sanded back to 220 with the grain.
Trans tint's owner/ Guru is around so I'd let him answer that one. I've tried Trans tint in other epoxies and it seriously messed with the curing speed even though it seemed to mix in nicely. Eventually it worked out OK.
That West Systems 105/207 is a top coat but most guitar makers use it as a grain fill/ foundation for other finishes. It kicks fast and is very easy to sand level. It has the added benefits of adding some amber tone and a decent UV blocker.
I don't think the Tru-oil can penetrate the epoxy but it can fill all the tiny scratches leaving a very transparent finish with a nice glow to it that isn't glossy.
I use the epoxy as a grain filler -yes.
You can probably use the epoxy over tru-oil if the tru-oil is completely dry i.e. for months and then sanded back to 220 with the grain.
Trans tint's owner/ Guru is around so I'd let him answer that one. I've tried Trans tint in other epoxies and it seriously messed with the curing speed even though it seemed to mix in nicely. Eventually it worked out OK.