Wiring a single phase motor

[Warren May]

My dust collector stopped working and I think it is the switch. It's the big green DC from HF. I bought a new switch from Amazon but not sure how to install it. The old switch had 2 red wires from the motor (load?) at one end and 2 wires from the 110 plug cord (line?). It made more sense to me as hot to hot and neutral to neutral with a direct contact via a copper strip to each (old switch was very cheaply made and probably shouldn't have lasted this long). The new switch has 4 lugs, 2 on each side, with arrows pointing to one lug on each side and read "load" and "line". Do I just hook the red (load?) wires on one side and the input (line?) to the other side? Does it matter the order? I know there was another conversation about switching the motor direction so I want it running the correct way. Any help would be most appreciated since the switch didn't come with any instructions.

I also have a remote dust collector switch from Shop Fox to wire in. Should have done that to start with to save the switch. That is, I'm hoping it was the switch and not a starter or other wiring issue. I don't want to buy a new DC right now.

[David King]

Warren,

I'd try to keep the hot and hot connected through the switch so that a polarized plug isn't sending the hot to the motor's neutral. Neutral is white, hot is black. Motors shouldn't care but you never know with HF stuff. Screw terminals on switches often use nickel plating on the neutral and brass on the hot screw. the arrow might be indicating Hot. Line and Load are as you surmised.

The motor may need a new run or start capacitor. It might also need a new centrifugal switch. These parts are cheap compared to a new motor or DC. I've replaced a lot of switches and bearings but nary a cap or centrifugal switch.

[Warren May]

Thanks, David.

[Warren May]

Got it running again and used it to thickness the walnut I got from the MIMF auction. Nice looking wood. The remote didn't work, however, since the added resistance made it blow the circuit breaker.

[Randy Roberts]

Thanks Warren
I hope the wood works out well for you. Did the resawing go ok?
Any help I can be, let me know. ( with the wood that is, not the electrical. Electrons scare me to death.)

[David King]

Got it running again and used it to thickness the walnut I got from the MIMF auction. Nice looking wood. The remote didn't work, however, since the added resistance made it blow the circuit breaker.

[David King]

Got it running again and used it to thickness the walnut I got from the MIMF auction. Nice looking wood. The remote didn't work, however, since the added resistance made it blow the circuit breaker.

That's not making immediate sense to me.
What added resistance? More resistance should mean fewer amps being drawn and thus less likely to blow the breaker.
What was the brand of the remote switch? Most of them have a built in breaker to protect them from over-current too.
I don't see how the switch could have added much to the current draw of the motor unless there's something wrong with it.

[Warren May]

Randy,
The walnut from the auction was already close to thickness as a back/side set so I just had to bring it down a little with the drum sander. I did resaw some butternut for a dulcimer and it came out very well. Thanks for the help.

David,
The stop/start switch I wired to the DC was simple. The HF dust collector and the switch don't have breakers so the house panel breaker was what tripped. Should I have a breaker safety switch? By added resistance, I'm not an electrics guy at all but what seems to happen is that adding the extra extension cord length between the DC and the house outlet by using the Shop Fox remote may cause it to pull just over the 15 amp line and flip the breaker. If I eliminate the remote switch, it doesn't blow the breaker. Not sure I'm saying this correctly but it seems to be the added resistance of the extra cord length. I don't have any other tools or electrical devices on that circuit when I run the DC, normally, but anything extra beyond the DC on that circuit will blow it so in a sense the DC is on a dedicated circuit. Any suggestions about increasing safety?

[David King]

Thanks for the clarification Warren. You must be right at the limit of that 15A and somehow the relay in the wireless switch draws enough to trip the breaker.
I'd rewire that motor to 220V and drop the amps in half (if you have a 220V outlet nearby). Or run 12 AWG from the board to the DC and install a 20A breaker at the board. You want at least 20% extra capacity on every circuit just as a precaution.
You could wire up a hard-wired remote switch using a 24V doorbell transformer to run a 2 HP relay. Most shops with actuate the DC relay using a microswitch at each dust gate.
A size "00" motor starter relay is what you need, there are lots of them on ebay.

[Warren May]

Thanks, David. I'll get my electrician friends to come over and take a look at running a line for me. I guess I've just never thought of it before now but knowing just adding an extension cord trips the breaker must mean it's bumping up against the 15 amp limit for that line and a potential hazard. The house subpanel isn't far away and I'm not sure whether they wired it up with 14 or 12 gauge wire. My understanding from reading on the web is I could change out the breaker if I have 12. We have a 3 car garage with the 3rd bay walled off for a shop area. It was initially wired as a garage and I've just never taken the plunge to wire it up properly. I'm a really small hobbyist but would love a real shop. I cruised the web and the older HF DC which I have says it is rated at 20 amps, 2 HP but they say it's more like 1.5 HP and the start-up draws a little more current than runtime. I'd agree with that assessment.