to reset or not to reset...

[Ryan Mazzocco]

I have a Guild acoustic guitar coming in for a repair. I've already looked at it before.
The binding/perfling on the top are loose and the binding on the back is cracking and falling off, even missing in some places.
Question is... The action is a little high... probably about .120" or more to my eye, but surprisingly still easy to play. the bridge is lifting and needs reset.. I figure that will knock the action down at least a few thou...
but it's still too has as far as I'm concerned and the owner is not opposed to having it reset either. so, I'm thinking, it would probably be easier to replace the binding with the neck off anyway, right? so would this be kind of like a mechanic going ahead and replacing the timing belt when replacing the water pump since he's in there anyway? Either that or I will have to carefully cut the binding perfectly as it meets the side of the neck.

[Ryan Mazzocco]

would this be kind of like a mechanic going ahead and replacing the timing belt when replacing the water pump since he's in there anyway?

or is that the other way around? Hey, I'm not a mechanic, okay. anyway....

[Michael Lewis]

I would defer the neck re-set until it is needed, not before. One reason is because the guitar is stressed in the neck removal process, so do it VERY SELDOM. Guild necks are not the easiest to remove.

If you adjust the neck relief to optimum (with string tension) and put a long straight edge on the frets and project it to the bridge where does the straight edge contact the bridge? Is there a rise in the fingerboard over the body? Are there any uneven frets? How much saddle is exposed at the bridge? These questions need to be answered BEFORE you even think about removing the neck.

[Ryan Mazzocco]

Yes, Michael, as usual you are very wise and I listen to you.
I haven't done any measurements since it is not in my possession yet. I just did a few eyeball tests while I had it in my hands. Relief is really good. Saddle is a bit low for my liking. probably not too low, but not really any to take off. When I sight down the neck (no, not with a straight edge, just my eye) it looks like the angle hits a bit low on the bridge. So, maybe it just needs a little set up work.
So, then the question from here is... If it doesn't need a neck reset, then what's the best way to go about removing and reinstalling the binding? The reason I feel the need to remove it is that someone has tried to fix it before. I looks like they tried gluing it back in place with CA, but it didn't hold and now there's a big glob on superglue in the gaps. What I'm afraid of is that the plastic has shrunk. so if I just carefully cut it off at the neck on each side is may not go all the way around and there will be a gap against the neck. is that a valid concern? if so, how can I avoid it without removing the neck?

[Michael Lewis]

Then wait until you have the guitar in your hands to make accurate measurements and a good assessment.

I would do all I can for set up, and then if it doesn't show good enough do what is needed to make it right. If it is really close to needing a re-set then take the neck off and repair the binding, but if you can make it play well without the re-set then let it be.

[Ryan Mazzocco]

Okay. that seems reasonable. I'll have him bring it by and hopefully I can take some real measurements in the next day or two.
Thanks Michael.

[Ryan Mazzocco]

Okay, so I have the guitar in my possession and I think I have all the pertinent facts.
It's a '96 model Guild D4-NT-HR
Neck relief is <.010"
Action at the 12 fret is .130". Bridge is just barely starting to come loose so I'm not sure that it will bring the action down much, maybe .010 or .020" at the most I'm thinking, which still puts the action around .110"
the plane of the neck hits 5/64" below the top of the bridge.
saddle height is 1/16"
there is no abnormal top deflection.

So, what do you think?

[Michael Lewis]

You may be able to get it playing without resorting to the neck set, I would try that first, and only do the re-set if you can't get it going well. Neck angle doesn't change very fast, takes years, so get it going as well as you can and leave the re-set for another few years if you can. Generally under ideal conditions we are looking to have string height over the top at 1/2" or a bit less (right in front of the bridge) .