Thanks for posting that Nick. Seeing as Ernie Ball uses epoxy so I would follow their lead and skip the stink of the other two options. You can use epoxy caulking guns that have the self-mixing tips.
Here are some equipment options: http://epoxies.com/equipment.htm
Also check out their triggerbond hand held system.
Pour-in inlays?
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David King
- Posts: 2690
- Joined: Sat Jan 07, 2012 10:01 pm
- Location: Portland, OR
- Contact:
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David Gerard
- Posts: 11
- Joined: Fri Dec 28, 2012 3:42 am
- Location: Homer Alaska
Re: Pour-in inlays?
great video link!
Maybe I can help here. I do lots and lots of poured inlays when I make cutting boards out of left over acrylic in my cabinet/counter shop in addition to guitar building. I mostly use polyester resin and metallic powders or pigments and sometimes crushed acrylic particles.
For internal type inlays this poly works great but on an edge I feel I could not rely on polyester to be strong enough to resist a bang or 2.
I can see epoxy being much stronger and probably a much better choice for an edge(also no shrinkage as with polyester). We use systems 3 often when we do boat work and it is very strong and the mix ratio is 2 to 1. The long cure is much better since the longer cure duration will allow air from mixing to escape.
I would recommend mixing the metallic powders in the resin first and then mix the catylist just before the pour. I think one could route out the binding channel on a contoured body and then form a dam with tape then the next day flush route off the excess.
Some quick notes on the metallic powders, just like in auto paint metallic powders settle and the paint jar must be constantly shaken, with the pour method of inlay make sure to experiment to get an even suspension of the particles. A heat gun works great to thin the epoxy but the since the viscosity changes so may the consistency of color due to setting. If you experience some residual air bubbles after sanding just spot fill with CA glue. The finish will hide them.
This type of inlay can produce some amazing results and may remove some design limitations. If you happen to live near a marine supply they will carry this type of stuff, at least in my area.
Sorry for the long winded reply.
Maybe I can help here. I do lots and lots of poured inlays when I make cutting boards out of left over acrylic in my cabinet/counter shop in addition to guitar building. I mostly use polyester resin and metallic powders or pigments and sometimes crushed acrylic particles.
For internal type inlays this poly works great but on an edge I feel I could not rely on polyester to be strong enough to resist a bang or 2.
I can see epoxy being much stronger and probably a much better choice for an edge(also no shrinkage as with polyester). We use systems 3 often when we do boat work and it is very strong and the mix ratio is 2 to 1. The long cure is much better since the longer cure duration will allow air from mixing to escape.
I would recommend mixing the metallic powders in the resin first and then mix the catylist just before the pour. I think one could route out the binding channel on a contoured body and then form a dam with tape then the next day flush route off the excess.
Some quick notes on the metallic powders, just like in auto paint metallic powders settle and the paint jar must be constantly shaken, with the pour method of inlay make sure to experiment to get an even suspension of the particles. A heat gun works great to thin the epoxy but the since the viscosity changes so may the consistency of color due to setting. If you experience some residual air bubbles after sanding just spot fill with CA glue. The finish will hide them.
This type of inlay can produce some amazing results and may remove some design limitations. If you happen to live near a marine supply they will carry this type of stuff, at least in my area.
Sorry for the long winded reply.
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Paul Rhoney
- Posts: 186
- Joined: Fri Jan 06, 2012 1:34 pm
- Location: Vancouver, WA USA
Re: Pour-in inlays?
No apology necessary David, that was very helpful! Thank you so much. I'll have to start experimenting with some epoxy.
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Matthew Lau
- Posts: 609
- Joined: Sat Feb 18, 2012 2:03 am
Re: Pour-in inlays?
I don't like doing inlays, as that reminds me of work.
However, I really like working with dental silver Amalgam.
It'll take triturator (cheap on ebay) and is technically toxic (be sure to dispose of excess appropriately).
It is easy to work. No inhalation of shell dust.
The mercury is mostly bound in the metal.
It's also a superior filling material (aside from turning teeth black).
I was going to keep this as my secret, but since I'll never be a hotshot pro luthier...
However, I really like working with dental silver Amalgam.
It'll take triturator (cheap on ebay) and is technically toxic (be sure to dispose of excess appropriately).
It is easy to work. No inhalation of shell dust.
The mercury is mostly bound in the metal.
It's also a superior filling material (aside from turning teeth black).
I was going to keep this as my secret, but since I'll never be a hotshot pro luthier...